The last review of the 02 Anden published on Cellar Tracker was almost a year ago. That would seem to reflect a general belief that this wine is asleep. Or should be, by St. Innocent standards, though since 2000 my experience has been that Mark's wines don't stay on schedule like they used to. Which is in part why I ventured into the unknown last night, curious, since I'm not sure of what to do with these Andens, that being (I believe) the first year Anden fruit appeared separate from the Seven Springs bottlings. It had been in the back of my mind to try one for some time, and when Bob asked for pinot even though we were having steak, I knew a good opportunity had come--the one Anden we opened in youth was black and dense.
First though, here's that last review from Cellar Tracker, dated October '07, by an Anonymous, with a rating of 90 points: Dark red. initially, the nose showed some some woody notes. With more air, this gave way to dark red fruit and quite noticeable loamy earth aromas. Somewhat rustic though. On the palate, tends toward the fuller bodied side, with brambly dark red fruits, earth and rustic brushy flavors. Has a very nice balance of acids/tannins/fruit that bodes well for the future. Several years from its peak at this point. Very enjoyable now, but a bit rustic. Should be better in 3 to 5 years.
Our wine last night: I was literally holding my breath as I took that first sip. Wouldn't have been the least surprised if that big, black cherry and mint nose hadn't promised a whole lot more than the palate could deliver at age six. But no, it was all there, with more of same on the palate and a serious black licorice streak on the finish. Still a bruiser, still hefty. And you can really taste the skins. There's an extracted quality to the acidity, and the tannins are seem to jump from smooth to firm to rough to manageable from sip to sip. In color, though there are now some red glints vs. several years ago, this is still a pretty dark wine and unlike what I associate with Mark stylistically. We nursed the bottle for over two hours, and the fruit grew noticeably tired toward the end. Fading or retreating? This being a Mark Vlossak wine from a good vintage, I'd bet on the latter.