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WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

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Rahsaan

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WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

by Rahsaan » Sun Sep 07, 2008 6:55 pm

2004 Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Clos Guillot
Juicy succulent fruit but really leaning on the hard acids and a bit constricted around the edges. I enjoyed this more a year or so ago when it was more generous, although the fun bright juicy purity is still there.

2002 Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Clos Guillot
Right now this was more fun than the 04 because it is fuller and more mature with some evolved flavors. Not exactly a ‚rich’ wine and it never really shows the depth that would get one very excited. But, decent maturing crisp drinking.

2002 Bernard Baudry Chinon La Croix Boissée
Smoky deep firm fruit with cool minerality and all sorts of fun ponderous depth on the nose. But, this sucker is Hard as a Rock and the fierce acidic profile places this in a difficult stage for me as a taster. With air some of the fruit fills in and some of the tannic structure emerges to complete the picture so I’m guessing there are only good things ahead in the future.

2002 Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux
7 months ago, I had a lovely bottle of this that was slightly maturing and pumping gorgeous sappy fruit. That bottle had however spent a few years in less-than-perfect CA Closet storage. This bottle spent its entire life in an air-conditioned Paris cellar until I bought it earlier this summer. So, it was much much less evolved. The pulsing fruit that was gushing in the earlier bottle is sort of evident, underneath the acidic structure that is laying on top and exerting more control. But, the pulsing fruit remains only a hint and it is still dominated by the structure for my tastes. Nonetheless, I had more fun here than with the 02 CB and it was an interesting lesson in the effects of storage.

2002 Chateau du Hureau Saumur Champigny Cuvée des Fevettes
Sexy and forward liquid kirsch bark (unique to the forests of Saumur I am sure) but with air that rustic barky tannin feel is just a little too present for me to fall in love. The fruit is nice, ripe, and crisp, but perhaps this is better when it was younger and juicier or when it will be older and mellower?

2005 Hospices de Saumur Saumur Champigny Clos Cristal
This wine is deep and darkly fruited with all sorts of minerals and tannin to wake up your senses. At the same time, it retains a cool crisp structure (in fact my Grenache-loving wife even found it ‚sour’). This was nothing fancy and would probably be boring if you thought too hard about it or tried to imagine too much elegance, but for 6€ per .375 it was fun drinking.
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James Roscoe

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Re: WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

by James Roscoe » Sun Sep 07, 2008 10:15 pm

Wish I could find that many Loire Cab Francs on this side of the Atlantic! Thank yo for the post. I am now thirsty again and it's just about bedtime!

Do most Loire reds see oak? I assumed so, but I remembered reading that some were done without oak. I was curious.
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Re: WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

by John S » Mon Sep 08, 2008 12:17 am

I think only the top cuvees see any new oak in smaller barriques; most is in older oak in large casks, so little overt oak will be evident. In the Loire in general (whites and reds), it's much more about the fruit than the oak. Some growers, from Muscadet to Pouilly Fume, experiment wih barriques, but it's not 'traditional' in the region.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

by Rahsaan » Mon Sep 08, 2008 5:42 am

James Roscoe wrote:Wish I could find that many Loire Cab Francs on this side of the Atlantic!


All of these are imported to the States and the Baudry is particular is imported by Dressner and Lynch so is usually quite available. And, for better or worse, these aren't the kind of wines that get snapped up in Musigny-esque feeding frenzies so they're usually pretty easy to buy. And did I mentioned affordable.
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Re: WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

by Oswaldo Costa » Mon Sep 08, 2008 8:47 am

Very useful to have these notes available for the future via search engine...
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Re: WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

by Bruce K » Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:31 am

James Roscoe wrote:Wish I could find that many Loire Cab Francs on this side of the Atlantic!


Two words: Chambers Street. My main source for all things Baudry and Loires in general.

Also, Baudry's "Les Granges" bottling -- his entry level, drink-young wine -- is widely available in D.C. I get it regularly at my local, otherwise-mediocre liquor store, Morris Miller, and I've seen it at a number of other places, including Rodman's. While not in the same league with the bottlings Rahsaan tasted, Les Granges is a great value, consistently delightful, and rarely needs much, if any, age on it to be enjoyed.
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Re: WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

by James Roscoe » Mon Sep 08, 2008 2:33 pm

One has to actually drive to DC. I guess I was hoping to see more of it in Maryland. A lost cause, I know.
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Re: WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

by Bruce K » Mon Sep 08, 2008 2:43 pm

James Roscoe wrote:One has to actually drive to DC. I guess I was hoping to see more of it in Maryland. A lost cause, I know.


If memory serves me correctly, I may have seen some Baudry in a new wine (private) shop in Bethesda. (Montgomery County of all places!) You should also check out Mills in Annapolis.
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Re: WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

by Tim York » Mon Sep 08, 2008 2:49 pm

Bruce K wrote: While not in the same league with the bottlings Rahsaan tasted, Les Granges is a great value, consistently delightful, and rarely needs much, if any, age on it to be enjoyed.


Don't underestimate Les Granges. The 2000 which I drank in June was absolutely lovely (see WTN).
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Re: WTN: Recent Loire Cabernet Francs

by Bruce K » Mon Sep 08, 2008 3:10 pm

Tim York wrote:Don't underestimate Les Granges. The 2000 which I drank in June was absolutely lovely (see WTN).


I admire your discipline! I have often thought they have the potential to age nicely, but they are good young and they're relatively cheap, so when I buy them, it's just too easy to pop and pour.

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