Here are brief notes on some of the wines consumed in the last few weeks. They are mainly substantial reds as our summer has been chilly and continues that way.
Loire
Vouvray Les Perruches (demi-sec) 1996 – Domaine du Clos Naudin (Philippe Foreau) bids strongly to be my outstanding wine for the year so far; perfected focussed and long with minerals, wax, quince, honeyed slight sweetness balanced by deliciously mouth-watering acidity; 18/20. On the other hand Savennières Château de Chamboureau Cuvée de l’Avant 2000 was disappointingly dull albeit drinkable -14/20; previous bottles were very good (16/20+) so I don’t know what is going on here; tardy closing down or subliminal TCA? Anjou-Villages Brissac Croix de la Mission 1996 – Domaine de Rochelles( J-Y Lebreton) sees no wood and is unusual for the area in that it is Cabernet-Sauvignon dominated; this wine was harmonious with good depth and length but maybe a little one dimensional; 15.5/20+.
Valais – Switzerland
The two Valais AOC wines from Denis Mercier were excellent. Cornalin 2002 (red) has a very original savoury flavour profile with juicily acid red fruit, minerals, a pronounced slightly rustic but still classy tang and good length; the nearest wine flavour like this is from good Gamay from Touraine but this has more class; 16/20. Petite-Arvine 2005 (white) is quite generous with southern warmth (alc. 14.5%) but is balanced by minerals and excellent acidity; 16/20; the 2002 was less generous but fresher and more elegant. Amigne de Vétroz AOC 2004 (white) Gilbert Devayes was quite full but showed oxidative notes with a quite burnished sweetness; substantial cooling down masked the oxidative notes; 13.5/20. Amigne is supposed to have some ageing potential.
Southern France
Côtes du Rhône Villages Les Haut de Gramenon – Domaine de Gramenon 2005 (red) was more severe and structured than I was expecting after some this estate’s exceptionally charming Grenache dominated cuvées; enjoyable with good fruit, though, and perhaps better in a year or two; 15/20. Côtes du Rhône Chèvrefeuilles 2006 Domaine la Réméjeanne (red) was full and succulent with enough grip; a model young CDR ; 16/20. Coteaux du Languedoc Montpeyroux Côte Dorée 1998 Domaine l’Aiguelière (red) has civilized the bombastic character which it showed young and now presents a full bodied harmonious palate with Syrah sour cherry fruit but still with clear if now integrated traces of a vanilla patina from its lavish oak treatment; not equal to the initial hype; just 16/20. Coteaux du Languedoc Pic-Saint-Loup 2006 Mas de Fournel and Côtes du Roussillon Villages VV 2004 Domaine Gardiès (both red) were both worthy examples of their appellations; full, gutsy and tasty but not especially memorable; 15.5/20.
Bordeaux and satellites
Château Larmande Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 1997 was mature and well integrated; a good 97 needing to be drunk; 16/20. Château Rauzan-Despagne AOC Bordeaux 2003 (red) was praised by Parker and rightly as it showed burgeoning rich fruit with an acceptable touch of the typical 03 candied notes; 15.5/20++. Domaine de Courteillac AOC Bordeaux(red) is an old friend but 2003 is now showing signs of premature evolution with fading rose aromas towards the finish on a full palate; 14.5/20. Côtes du Marmandais Chante-Coucou 2003 Elian da Ros(red) is the best of these 03s; full, ripe and structured with jammy hints but no candied notes; 16/20+; I preferred the 2002 on which I reported a few days ago for its greater freshness but this is a fine example of its vintage.
Other
Chianti Classico 2004 Tenuta Fontodi was excellent with ripe appropriately acidic fruit, authentic tang and good structure; 16/20 + with potential. I thoroughly disliked La Capitana Barrel Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2006 Viña La Rosa Cachapoal Valley Chile; up-front fruit, rather sweet and quite jammy with ugly dry caramel (undigested new wood?) on the finish; 12.5/20 for me but it could have its fans.