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Patchen (Chicago)

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WTN: 2000 Copain PN "Cerise"

by Patchen (Chicago) » Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:14 am

<b>2000 Copain Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, Cerise Vineyard</b>

This wine was a gift from a friend a few years back; last night we decided to open it and toast Larry Moss. As I recall, his notes ran more European than Californian, but this label made us think the mottled light breaking through the redwoods along the western reaches of 128, which seemed right.

Fairly dark. Beautifully aromatic at first pour -- black cherries and flowers -- but reticent and quite acidic, not showing a lot on the palate. After about a half an hour in the glass, it begins to open up; the sharp attack has softened, plum and cherry have come into the foreground; and while the finish is medium-long and mostly clean, jewel-toned but not confected fruit, there's an earthy note in the mix that adds complexity, and harmonizes well with the morels in our dinner. (In light of Florida Jim's recent note on another Copain, I'll add that the 14.4% alcohol was, for the most part, unintrusive.)

cheers

Patchen
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Re: WTN: 2000 Copain PN "Cerise"

by Jenise » Mon Jun 26, 2006 12:01 pm

Timely note. I recently acquired a pair of 04's--never had a Copain anything before. Really should follow the usual plan and open one now and leave the other for X years out--your note gives courage.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: 2000 Copain PN "Cerise"

by Florida Jim » Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:13 pm

Jenise wrote:Timely note. I recently acquired a pair of 04's--never had a Copain anything before. Really should follow the usual plan and open one now and leave the other for X years out--your note gives courage.


I've had better luck with their Dennison Vnyd. pinots in several vintages, FWIW.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
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Re: WTN: 2000 Copain PN "Cerise"

by Dan Donahue » Mon Jun 26, 2006 1:35 pm

Thanks for the note--I like those Anderson Valley PNs. I haven't found the Cerise yet, but I enjoyed the '02 Hacienda Secoya (even with youngish vines) and have some '03 HS stuck away.
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Re: WTN: 2000 Copain PN "Cerise"

by Jenise » Mon Jun 26, 2006 2:40 pm

Jim, define "better luck". Just tastier?
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: 2000 Copain PN "Cerise"

by Florida Jim » Mon Jun 26, 2006 3:52 pm

Jenise wrote:Jim, define "better luck". Just tastier?


Probably more info. than you asked for but . . .
Wells Gutherie, the winemaker at Copain, has a remarkable palate. I sat next to him at a wine dinner when everything was served blind and his ability to identify each wine's qualities, origins and often, even vintage, was nothing short of uncanny.
I have tasted his wines since the first year he started Copain and I have been impressed not only by his evident skills but by his use of and, in most instances, superb use of the fruit from the Anderson Valley. I personally find Anderson Valley pinot and, to a lesser extent syrah, to be some of the best in CA.
After several years of tasting his wines, I started to think of him as "the great white hope" for domestic wine making and the Anderson Valley as the undiscovered El Dorado.
I have since revised that opinion back a few notches as I have tasted other producers stuff from the area and more of Copain's wines over the years - and especially with some age on them.
I still think they do a good job but I don't think they're getting the precise and authentic wines they did in the beginning. Big points and press will turn one's head - or such is my surmise.
In any event, the early Dennison pinots were stunning wines - so unlike any others in CA I was amazed. Over the years they seem to perform just as well with age on them - some of the other bottlings, not so.
I have given up on this mailing list (along with all the others) but I still get to taste an occasional wine from the new vintages. But I still have some of the older wines in my cellar and every once and awhile, I try'em.
The Dennison's have maintained their sense of place - the Valley can produce wines with mouthwateringly "crunchy" fruit, good "tonic water" type acidity and a supple character that, when combined, make me wish more really good producers were wroking with that fruit.
Thus my comment.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Patchen (Chicago)

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Re: WTN: 2000 Copain PN "Cerise"

by Patchen (Chicago) » Mon Jun 26, 2006 4:00 pm

Jiim -- I'm not Jenise, but thank you for that. And also for "tonic water" acidity: a new descriptor to me, but thinking back on this wine I think it makes sense.

Out of curiosity, what Anderson Valley syrahs do you enjoy?

cheers

Patchen
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Re: WTN: 2000 Copain PN "Cerise"

by Florida Jim » Mon Jun 26, 2006 6:58 pm

Patchen (Chicago) wrote:Out of curiosity, what Anderson Valley syrahs do you enjoy?


Copain's for one; there were a couple of others I've tried but their names escape me now (probably why I liked the pinot's better).
But if you like cool climate syrah, look for some that will be coming on line shortly out of Bennett Valley (in Sonoma). Bevan Cellars and Drystack Vineyards both producing out of Drystack vieyard. They should be in release in a year or so.
The vineyard (with which I am hands-on familiar) is in a cool patch of what is already a cool AVA and people like Pax and Lewis have sourced from it. But they do a little more 'winemaking' than these guys do.
From the barrel samples, these should be northern Rhone-ish and age-worthy but, once they are in bottle, we'll see.
Best, Jim.
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Re: WTN: 2000 Copain PN "Cerise"

by Patchen (Chicago) » Mon Jun 26, 2006 7:04 pm

Thanks, I'll keep my eyes open.

cheers
Patchen
cheers,

Patchen

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