WTN: 2003 Terrazas de los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva

2003 Terrazas de los Andes Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 13.5%
Dark plum color. Aromas of chocolate and vanillin (Marcia smells cassis). Before food, I was hit by a rush of acidity that overwhelmed the relatively modest fruit. Medium tannins and additional (but faint) notes of coffee, tobacco, and blueberries. After food dampens the acidity, the alcohol comes to the fore and appears out of balance with the fruit, despite the civilized (13.5%) level. I had higher expectations because of some age in the bottle, but found this disappointing. It shows little varietal typicity and, in line with most Argentinean reds I have tasted recently, seems to reflect the terroir more than the grape. And the acidulation, in this case, appears to have been somewhat heavy-handed, or may have become so with age as some of the fruit faded.

About Terrazas, Alejandro recently wrote: I also favour the reserve Terrazas over the regular bottling, but it does have more "newer" oak in it so it does need 18 months after release to come around... (Terrazas) wines are being rushed out to market... this is especially true for Malbec in the Terrazas portfolio.... they sell the stuff so well that they run out of juice and have to release the next year. If you look at the other varietals of the same line, this does not happen... If this cabernet is indicative, I could see why the other reserve varietals don’t sell as well as the Malbec Reserva, which I have yet to try with more than 18 months in the bottle (will try to find one). Next up, the 2006 regular Terrazas Malbec.

Oswaldo, first of all thanks for your notes - always very well written, detailed and technical. From your notes its hard to not agree with your judgement on the wine.... alas, my experiences with the Terrazas Reserve Cabernet could not have been more different.... have you thought about trying another bottle? I have various years of the Terrazas Cabernets in Magnum format... even stuff from the 90s and it holds up perfectly, with no imbalance of alcohol and the acidity level right where it needs to be.... also very proper typicity, at least in my book. I cant really find much to say... other than, have you tried the Afincado line...? That cab is the best made by Terrazas, me thinks (especially the stuff made until the departure of Roberto De La Motta).

As a final comment.... I honestly dont understand where you are coming from with this concern over acidulation.... are you sure its the culprit for everything going wrong in a wine...? Im not sure we need to blame a tool thats only part of a toolbox... else, are we just doomed to drink wines that are made from grapes sourced from soils that offer lots natural acidity potential...? Not sure where you are going with all this acidulation issues, it would be great if you could elaborate further.

Cheers from Buenos Aires,
Alejandro

alas, my experiences with the Terrazas Reserve Cabernet could not have been more different.... have you thought about trying another bottle? I have various years of the Terrazas Cabernets in Magnum format... even stuff from the 90s and it holds up perfectly, with no imbalance of alcohol and the acidity level right where it needs to be.... also very proper typicity, at least in my book. I cant really find much to say... other than, have you tried the Afincado line...? That cab is the best made by Terrazas, me thinks (especially the stuff made until the departure of Roberto De La Motta).

Since you endorse it, I will very gladly try another bottle, if possible with a different provenance.

In your magnums, the fruit will surely last longer but, of course, one uses regular bottles when speculating about longevity.

I haven't tried the Afincado or its predecessor, the Gran Malbec. Will do so based on your recommendation.

As a final comment.... I honestly dont understand where you are coming from with this concern over acidulation.... are you sure its the culprit for everything going wrong in a wine...? Im not sure we need to blame a tool thats only part of a toolbox... else, are we just doomed to drink wines that are made from grapes sourced from soils that offer lots natural acidity potential...? Not sure where you are going with all this acidulation issues, it would be great if you could elaborate further.

Thanks for the stimulus, I'll put together my thoughts on this subject and post a separate thread that will, hopefully, attract lots of information.

Oswaldo, good point about the fruit in Magnums.... alas, I also have 750's in the cellar that have also been showing very well (and continue to do so) over the years.