2006 Errazuriz Pinot Noir Wild Ferment Casablanca Valley

2006 Errazuriz Pinot Noir Wild Ferment Casablanca Valley 14.5%
Part of an ongoing survey of southern cone pinot noirs. Translucent ruby color. Attractive nose of nail polish (acetone), maraschino cherry, vanilla and pain grillé. First taste, without food, is sour cherry, a bit too hot but with good acidity, decent weight in the mouth but a relatively short finish. But there’s definitely pinosity here, with a burgundian profile. Over time, some port-like oxidative notes appear, and then mysteriously disappear. With food, and with time, it became more and more satisfying, wearing its alcohol well, maintaining good acidity and rich fruit, with additional tastes of prunes and green twigs. Towards the end of the bottle, this became so well-rounded that I began to consider it the best Chilean pinot I have tried. Not saying much, but there you go. Under screwcap (hooray), this should age well for 5+ years.

The fact sheet in the informative Errazuriz website says that this was “aged 11 months in Burgundy-style French oak barrels, 57% of which are new.” It was “fermented with the native yeasts that are naturally present on the grapes. No commercial yeasts are employed. Unlike commercial yeasts, which are selected according to technical criteria such as resistance to SO2 and alcohol, wild yeasts present a greater number of strains and generally experience higher stress levels during fermentation. The combination of factors produces different concentrations and proportions of by-products, which contribute distinctive flavours to the wine and enhances complexity.” I was cheered by the presumption that we care. I certainly do…

[Jenise]

Acetone! That may be just the odd thing about every Chilean pinot I've had so far and which has eluded my attempt to name. Couldn't think what to call it, but they've all had it.

With the word 'burgundian' in your note I presume this wine escaped the kind of oak treatment I associate with Errazuriz's cabernets (or at least, as of 5-10 years ago, things could have changed)?

With the word 'burgundian' in your note I presume this wine escaped the kind of oak treatment I associate with Errazuriz's cabernets (or at least, as of 5-10 years ago, things could have changed)?

Yes, the oak was subtle and well-integrated, quite good. They have a reputation for being trendy and international style, but this pinot seemed to me very respectful of the grape's essence, notwithstanding the high alcohol.

I don't think I caught acetone in the other Chilean pinots I tried, but this one had a blast of it right after pouring, though it rapidly subsided...