WTNs: Douro Wine Dinner (4 ports, 2 reds, 1 white)

A Douro wine dinner at the Figueira Rubaiyat steak house, put together by Guilherme Rodrigues, the wine editor of Gula, a major local food & wine magazine.

NV Taylor’s Chip Dry Extra Dry White Port
Light yellow. Oxidative nose with almonds. Good acid/sweet balance, though high alcohol makes it a bit too hot as an initial volley. Interesting because dry, for a port.

1973 Santa Eufêmia Reserva White Port
According to our host, old white ports like this are quite rare. Lovely amber with bronze highlights. Oxidative brandy nose with walnuts, almonds and prunes. Quite sweet, with honey, almond cake and a hint of orange. Very youthful. This wine came to market when Portugal experienced the “Carnations Revolution” against the Salazar régime, so it was pulled and kept at the vineyard until re-release last year.

2006 Niepoort Redoma Reserva White
With codfish brandade. A blend of Rabigato, Codega, Donzelinho, Viosinho, and Arinto (gotta love those names). Our host considers this the best dry white in Portugal. Very pale straw color. Interesting nose of peach, pomegranate, white flower and some butter. Rich and balanced, with a slightly bitter finish. Tastes different and originals between a Rueda and a white burgundy.

2005 Casa Ferreirinha Douro Quinta da Leda 13.5%
With lamb ossobucco. A top Douro estate, from which Barca Velha grapes are now predominantly sourced.* A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Roriz. Dark ruby color. Rich aromatics of sour cherry, vanilla, and blackberries. Mouth puckering tannins and reserved flavors. After tasting so many new world wines in the last few weeks, it’s a bit of a shock to taste grapes without surmaturité. Refined and elegant but not silky or mouth filling. Great natural acidity. Very Bordeaux like, minus the cedar & lead pencil. A young wine built to last.

*I was fascinated to learn that the legendary Barca Velha is not tied to a specific site, amost like a négociant wine. Grapes are sourced from different quintas and combined by the winemaker however he sees fit. There are rumors that, in one vintage, grapes were even sourced from the Dão (sinful!) because the winemaker felt they would provide the missing element. The primary source for Barca Velha grapes used to be the Quinta do Vale Meão, where Casa Ferreirinha held a lease. When that expired, they switched to Quinta da Leda.

2005 Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional 14%
With overdone strip steak and untouched baked potato. My favorite Portuguese estate. 100% Touriga Nacional. Deep and dense purple color. Aromas of sour cherry, violets, iodine, bacon and chocolate. Delicious mouth feel. Dense, rich, with vibrant acidity. Long finish. Oak is detectable and delectable. Balanced and delicious, though not quite on the same level as a 2000 Vinha da Ponte I once tasted.

2001 Quinta do Noval LBV Port 19.23%
With bad Brazilian brie (BBB). Made from a blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesa and Tinta Roriz. Almost black. Nose of wild berry, anis and nuts. Flavors of molasses, stewed prunes and mint. Good acidity.

NV Graham's 20 Year Tawny 20%
With Torta de Santiago and I scream. Made from a blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz “and others.” Dark yet transparent ruby. Oxidative nose with molasses, almonds and cherry cordial. Good acidity and balance. Help!

Thanks for this excellent post! One of the owners of my fave store is from Portugal so we are spoilt here.
I think I can keep my Crasto another year or two? The Noval is creeping up in price here but which wine isn`t!

Oswaldo,
Interestng tasting and I learn something every day. I probably drink a bottle of port every month but they are always red, sweet, vintage or LBV or sometime tawny. I have never had a white port although realize they exist. I was very surprised that a white port could be dry. I was under the impression the wine, usually red, had a sweet brandy added to get the sweetness and alcohol up to about 20%. What is added to a dry port? dry bandy? Seems rather odd to me but would have been interesting to try.
Walt

I have always enjoyed the dry white Ports - but hard to find here sometimes. Great aperitif chilled.

I have all three single varietal versions of the Crastos in 1999 - Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Cao, and was wondering if serving them all together side by side might not be interesting some time. What is your opinion of their rates of maturation and when do you figure the 1999s will be best - maybe from about now on?

I think I can keep my Crasto another year or two?

Which Crasto is that, Bob?

I have never had a white port although realize they exist. I was very surprised that a white port could be dry. I was under the impression the wine, usually red, had a sweet brandy added to get the sweetness and alcohol up to about 20%. What is added to a dry port? dry bandy?

Alas, I tend to wimp out when the alcohol level rises above 15%, so have limited port experience (meaning I don’t have a girlfriend in every port!). Perhaps someone more Port oriented can chime in.

I have all three single varietal versions of the Crastos in 1999 - Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Cao, and was wondering if serving them all together side by side might not be interesting some time. What is your opinion of their rates of maturation and when do you figure the 1999s will be best - maybe from about now on?

I didn’t even know there was a Tinta Cão bottling. That sure sounds like a dream tasting! If I had such a trio, I would do the tasting this fall, when things cool down a little. They have probably reached their plateau and should be magnificent. If they have been stored in cool temperatures, I would say there’s little risk in waiting a year or two, but after that, while they might still last several more years, you’d be taking a chance because there’s no real track record yet…

Thanks Oswaldo. I might just schedule something this Fall.

Will entitle the subsequent notes "Don't Have a Cao, Man"......

Will entitle the subsequent notes "Don't Have a Cao, Man"......

Don't you dare! Actually, it took me a while to get it because the ã sound in Cão sounds very different, more like "aoun," very nasal. It's the single hardest sound in Portuguese for an English-speaking person to pronounce... It's so nasal that if you say it with wine in your mouth, it assists retro-olfaction greatly.

I shall ask my Portuguese friend for pronounciation lessons if only to improve my tasting technique!