1998 Ch. Villars & 1978 Ch. la Mission Haut Brion

1998 Villars (Fronsac):
I've long enjoyed wine from this estate, which is frequently available in French supermarkets. This 98 was looking its age (neither more or less) and the bouquet was really remarkable, with lead pencil aromas and a depth of fruit that would have foxed anyone if tasted blind. I'd have definitley placed it on the Left Bank! While not as rich or long as a good great growth, this neverthless provided huge pleasure. As my wife remarked, it didn't have the hard or rigid side one often finds in Fronsac.
Curiously, the bouquet had gone very flat by the next morning... (12 hours later).

1978 La Mission Haut Brion
This was opened in honor of the daughter of a friend who was visiting, and who had just turned 30, and also to celebrate my 30th year in Bordeaux.
I last had this wine about 10 years ago and swore I would wait another decade before opening my last bottle. I did well to wait, because the wine was much more together, and has only just now reached its peak - and is on a plateau which it will hold for some time to come. No rush to drink up.
The nose had that funky, earthy quality so typical of LMHB, so much so that I found myself thinking that the wine lovers who exclude Bordeaux in favor of Burgundy or Rhône wines would nevertheless be right at home here... The earthiness was just tremendous, plus a little leatheriness and a smell of polished wood floor. Rich and satisfying on the palalte with a trendously long, but cool aftertaste. Fine cedar and tobacco notes. "Classique de chez classique".
How very different in style from Haut Brion across the street! I would compare the difference to that between Cognac and Armagnac. Like Haut Brion, Cognac is most often more elegant, but like LMHB, Armagnac has a deeply satisfying and eathy tang, and seems somehow more natural...

Best regards,
Alex R.

Brought back memories of a 1975 LMHB I had four years ago that was one of the highlights of my wine drinking history... See you on the 18th!

thanks for notes.
The '78 LMHB is supposed to be great, the one I tried was corked- sob!
Good to know Villars makes solid wnes. I didn't get excited by the '03, but scarcely a fair vintage to judge by. Will keep open mind.

Dale,

Funny you should mention the 2003 Villars. I had it not long ago. I remember the strong *impression* of varietal Cabernet (although Merlot surely predominates) that had more in common with Provence or the Rhône Valley than Bordeaux: high alcohol level, black olive on the bouquet, a certain hotness. I popped the cork on a weekday evening and found it warming and interesting. Of course, we are talking about pretty inexpensive wines by Bordeaux standards.

Best regards,
Alex R.