BTN: Brasserie Dupont, Russian River, Fat Tire

I seem to have better luck with pairing beers with food than with pairing wines with food. The Dupont Foret and the Russian River Salvation were astounding matches for some Thai dishes I recently made. I found it curious, however, that Russian River Brewing claimed on the label of the Pliny the Elder that hops are not compatible with aging beers (of course, it is quite unique that they are so concerned with folks misguidedly aging that beer when most people wouldn't even think of it). Certainly, I imagine the freshness of the hops would be something you wouldn't want to lose in many cases, but in other cases I would think that hops would act as a preservative, allowing the beer to age (Dogfish Head's 120 minute IPA comes to mind). That's something I am curious to learn more about . . .

2008 Brasserie Dupont Foret. Tourpes, Belgium (saison/farmhouse ale) sparkling wine type cork closure with wire cage, production year marked on cork, 7.5% – imported to USA by Vanberg & DeWulf, Cooperstown, New York – appears bright cider color, huge foamy head, tons of bubble movement and a pop when the cork is removed, smell bright and tart yeast, bit sweet nose and slightly reminscent of a hefeweizen, lively and fresh with some figs and indian spices, mouthfeel is firm and super sharp, yet foamy and rounded in the midpalate, very nice mouthfeel, taste is bright, fresh, and zippy, wonderful complex with fig cookies, delicious spices, plums, this is fantastic, an amazing pair for a mix and match Miang Kam dish with a mix of sweet (coconut, peanuts) and sharp (shallots, ginger) condiments on leaves of Kai-lan (Chinese broccoli) and a dollop of sweet shrimp sauce, the combo of sweet, sharp and bitter of the dish was balanced beautifully by the freshness and complexity of the beer, an out-of-the-park match, $10 for a 750 ml bottle. From producer: first certified organic beer in Belgium, bottle-conditioned.

2008 Brasserie Dupont Moinette Blonde. Tourpes, Belgium (belgian strong pale ale) sparkling wine type cork closure with wire cage, production year marked on cork, bottle-conditioned, unfiltered, 8.5% – imported to USA by Vanberg & DeWulf, Cooperstown, New York – appears cloudy apricot, big white foamy head, smell tart yeasty, sharp and fresh, rocking nose, mouthfeel string and sharp, very nice, taste wonderful tart refreshing, yeast apricot and cherry fruit, intense skin/core on finish, which I didn't care for, $10 for a 750 ml bottle.

Russian River Brewing Salvation Batch 007. Santa Rosa, Sonoma County, California. (belgian strong dark ale) cork with wire cage on 750 ml bottle, 9% – appears beautiful caramel brown, big off white foam, smell soft and subtle nuts with lots of tender fruit, very subtle nose, mouthfeel thick and very connected, taste at first was a bit warm and sweet, but eventually settles into beautiful complex porter-style beer, reminds me of the difference between real bacon and the bacon you usually run into, some espresso and animal fat as well, but just tasty, complex, slightly earthy, paired excellently with Kwaytiow Sen Yai Phat Pak Broccoli Kap See-eu Wan (fat noodles with broccoli and sweet black bean sauce) particularly with softening the spice of the Thai peppers and bringing out the earthiness of the black beans, more anonymous pair with Tom Kha Kai (Chicken-Coconut Soup with Siamese Ginger and Lemon Grass--though I left out the chicken and it didn't need it), feeling quaffable, but losing its more interesting complexity. Amazing beer, $8 for 750ml.

Russian River Brewing Pliny the Elder. Santa Rosa, Sonoma County, California. (American double/imperial IPA) crown cap on 500 ml bottle, 8% – appears bright amber, foamy white head, lots of bubbles, smell soapy warm hops, sharp edged apricot, mouthfeel soothing, almost silky, sophisticated, taste cool and integrated, warm hops, easier and more pleasant to drink than I expected, bit of wasabi peas on the finish, a very enjoyable drink. From producer: keep cold, drink fresh, do not age, hoppy beers are not meant to be aged. $4 for a 500 ml bottle.

New Belgium Brewing Fat Tire Amber Ale. Fort Collins, Colorado. (american amber/red ale) 22 ounce bottle, 5.2% - appears light bright amber with thick white head, smell odd granola and fruit, some nuts, expressive if a bit flat, reminds me of morning cereal for some reason, mouthfeel very tight spritz, heavier, taste pleasant hint of tart cherry/blueberry, crunchy granola, malty approach without a lot of backbone, but pleasant, a very decent happy hour beer, I wouldn't feel the need to seek out another, but it'd be welcome on my happy hour table again.

[David M. Bueker]

I have better luck with wine, but a really good beer is still really good beer (and I only drink really good beer).

The QPR of good beer is also wonderful.

I seem to have better luck with pairing beers with food than with pairing wines with food...for some Thai dishes I recently made..

Well if you're cooking Thai food, sure!

One of the best beers I had in the past weeks was the Triple Karmeliet from Brouwerij Bosteels. Rich and complex but also fresh and focused, same qualities I seek in wine!

One of the best beers I had in the past weeks was the Triple Karmeliet from Brouwerij Bosteels. Rich and complex but also fresh and focused, same qualities I seek in wine!

Yes, the Triple Karmeliet is incredibly fresh, I loved that beer as well. I wasn't a big fan of their Kwak, but then again I didn't have it with the curious beakeresque serving glass.

I didn't have it with the curious beakeresque serving glass.

I also didn't have the Triple in the 'right' glass and was given a squat round half-pint glass. Which was strange because the pub was using Karmeliert glasses for the flower arrangements on each table. Talk about distored priorities!

Dupont is a brewer that I really love! I mostly see their Saison here (which is one of my favourite beers); sometimes we see the Moinette (I've never seen a Foret). The Saison is not hugely alcoholic but is wonderfully hoppy; the Moinette in most years is dangerously drinkable for such a strong beer (I once drank two servings of that in a bar and though that was all I drank that night, it gave me a huge hangover...) - an amazing beer when on form in that the huge alcohol doesn't show at all.

I also find Beers to be extremely versatile with foods. I don't think I would say they are better with food than wine; but I will say they are roughly as compatible when speaking from a European point of view. But once we start including non-European foods, especially once the spice/heat gets raised, I do prefer good beer to wine. Spicy food, IMO, does not go well with high alcohol and oak, but rather needs light alcohol, acidity, no oak, sugar or some sweet sensation (ripe fruit, sugar, malt) and in this some beers are really a fantastic complement to the meal.

But I also think that with "classic" European cuisine, beers can be wonderful: a cassoulet-type dish with a dry stout (like Titanic's), or asparagus with a Trappist Trippel can be very satisfying matches. With the huge range of styles in beer, I wonder if we could find a proper match for almost all foods that are "supposed" to go with wine.

With the huge range of styles in beer, I wonder if we could find a proper match for almost all foods.

I think so.