WTN: Superb mature Carignano from Sardinia

Terre Brune 1994 Vino da Tavola di Sardegna – Cantina Sociale Santadi – Alc. 13%

I have always believed that this wine is 100% Carigano and my reference books tell me that it enjoys the appellation Carignano del Sulcis. So it was with surprise that I noted that this bottle claimed only to be a humble Vino Da Tavola di Sardegna. So with a little digging in the old archive, I uncovered an enthusiastic note from Luca Mazzoleni (where are you now?) dating from 1999 about this very same wine and vintage in which he explains that the varietal make-up is 80% Carignano old vines and 20% Bovaleddu. I do not know whether this composition was unique to 1994 or whether it happens every year.

This wine is brilliant. Even after the excellent Aupilhac Carignan du Mont Baudile 2005, it comes as a surprise that this grape is capable of ageing so gracefully and of taking on real elegance and such a velvety texture.
C: Deep red just beginning to show signs of bricking at the rim.
N: Complex rich red fruit with floral (roses) and herb notes and fine oak patina perfectly integrated.
P: Rich, deep, velvety, seamless and long with slightly sweet fruit, aromas as on the nose and touches of tar and leather; again the oak patina is obvious but by now perfectly integrated – a lesson of how to use wood. This wine has real distinction and reminds me of top class Bandol in a sweeter, less austere vein with slightly less tar and leather; we could have drunk another bottle but alas it was my only one; 17/20+.

Is there another wine as good as this made from Carignan elsewhere in the world?

Found this Tim....>

http://www.enotria.co.uk/wine-20996104.aspx

I think there is some Santadi downtown. Must take a look to see whats around!

Thanks for that, Bob. I am still bemused by the quality of this wine from a grape which was generally despised until recently. The 93 was also good in the late 90s but not like this; perhaps it needed more time.

There is one Languedoc producer, Thierry Hasard of Domaine de la Marfée, who gives his Carignan cuvée the amusing name "Les Vignes qu'on abat" = roughly "The vines which get ripped out" http://www.la-marfee.com/index.php?opti ... &Itemid=29 . However, I cannot recommend this wine as highly as Terre Brune in particular because Hasard is much heavier handed with oak in the samples which I have tried; admittedly none have had 14 years ageing.

PS at midday 22nd Sept - the bottle containing heeltaps still smells good 16 hours later; more liqueur like, cherry brandy, with exposure to air.