WTN /Wine Advisor: Great value Sicilian red

[Robin Garr]

Great value Sicilian red

Nero d'Avola ("The Black wine of Avola") may rank as Sicily's trademark red wine. Big, fruity and hearty, coming from a region that's only beginning to gain the wine world's respect, it's a natural for vinification in a blockbuster style that chases critical points.

Oddly enough, for me this situation turns the usual price-to-value equation upside down: Show me a pricey, high-end Nero d'Avola, and I'll prejudicially assume that it's a wine I won't enjoy, a monolithic fruit bomb made in a "New World" style to captivate the taste buds of critics like Robert M. Parker Jr. and the tasting committees at <I>Wine Spectator</I>.

But show me a budget-priced Nero D - particularly one brought in by an importer whose portfolio earns trust - and I'll likely snap it up, figuring that there's a fair chances that the lower-end producer lacks the time, money or motivation to be chasing critical points.

I took a smallish $9 gamble and won with today's tasting, Villa Pozzi 2007 Nero d'Avola Sicilia, a wine so modest that the front label bears only the raw basics: "Villa Pozzi Wine of Italy Nero d'Avola." You have to turn to the back label to find that it's an IGT ("Indicazione Geografica Tipica" wine from Sicily; and the 2007 vintage shows only in tiny print on the neck capsule.

It's a dark, dark wine, as the name "Nero" ("black") suggests, with good, ripe plum aromas enhanced with notes of licorice and spice. Fruity but not over-the-top, it's well structured with acidity and a back note of soft tannins that suggest at least a few years' aging potential. It's the kind of simple, rustic and enjoyable Nero D that used to dominate the niche.

Villa Pozzi 2007 Nero d'Avola Sicilia ($8.99)

Very dark purple, with a reddish-violet edge, typical of this grape. Black plums, a hint of licorice and subtle spice, not overly complex but appealing. A big mouth full of juicy black fruit is well structured by tart acidity and soft but distinct tannins. Quite a wine for well under $10, and it offers some reason to believe it will cellar well. U.S. importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd., Harrison, N.Y. (Aug. 31, 2008)

FOOD MATCH: Normally I'd think of a red meat match with this variety that's so often made as an inky blockbuster; but this Nero d'Avola is made in a more refined style, and it shows up well against the flavors of pork chops pan-roasted with plenty of garlic.

VALUE: With fine quality for well under $10, it qualifies as a "recession buster" special.

WHEN TO DRINK: There's no real reason to rush this fine young 2007, and it should keep and possibly gain complexity over three to five years in the cellar, although I wouldn't load up on it as an investment.

WEB LINK:
Here's a link to the U.S. importer's Website. Unfortunately, I can't find any information about Villa Pozzi beyond a logo:
http://www.wjdeutsch.com

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Locate vendors and check prices for Villa Pozzi Nero d'Avola on Wine-Searcher.com:
http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Pozzi ... g_site=WLP

Subscribe to The 30 Second Wine Advisor

Oddly enough, for me this situation turns the usual price-to-value equation upside down: Show me a pricey, high-end Nero d'Avola, and I'll prejudicially assume that it's a wine I won't enjoy, a monolithic fruit bomb made in a "New World" style to captivate the taste buds of critics like Robert M. Parker Jr. and the tasting committees at <I>Wine Spectator</I>.

I get your point, although surely there are some low-priced monolithic fruit bombs as well. It is Sicily afterall.

Hence the need to find the quality importer who matches your taste preferences, as you mention.

[Robin Garr]

I get your point, although surely there are some low-priced monolithic fruit bombs as well. It is Sicily afterall.

Hence the need to find the quality importer who matches your taste preferences, as you mention.

It's always tough to frame a parable that makes a point and then enumerate the exceptions. I think we're on the same page, though, ultimately, that following a trusted importer will minimize your chances of being led astray.

There are some very good upwardly mobile Nero d'Avolas. I've been quite keen on the Feudo Maccari Saia and the Morgante Don Antonio, but I know what you mean about monolithic fruit bombs.

The same thing afflicts Argentinian Malbec, IMO, and sadly, the more monolithic the higher some reviewers seem to rate them. You have to wonder if they don't have an Aussie shiraz in mind as a paradigm.

I think some wineries do have Rosemount Shiraz in mind when they produce Nero d'Avola (RS and all), but I agree that there are some excellent exceptions; I have a producer who grows NdA at altitude in the middle of Sicily who makes lovely wine. Even some of the top wines from Pachino (which is roasting hot) can be excellent. Perhaps the better southern varieties were selected in part for their tendency to retain acidity in hot climates.

Who knows what the better end of Sicilian production will look like in a few years.

[Jenise]

I took a smallish $9 gamble and won with today's tasting, Villa Pozzi 2007 Nero d'Avola Sicilia

I haven't had many Nero D'Avolas, but the few I've tried match your experience. I liked the cheapies better, though I never bonded with the grape enough to pursue them or want to choose a Nero over a similarly priced Chianti.

[

Oddly enough, for me this situation turns the usual price-to-value equation upside down: Show me a pricey, high-end Nero d'Avola, and I'll prejudicially assume that it's a wine I won't enjoy, a monolithic fruit bomb made in a "New World" style to captivate the taste buds of critics like Robert M. Parker Jr. and the tasting committees at <I>Wine Spectator</I>.

In my experience, this upside down phenomenon applies to a lot of wine growing areas. To start nearer home, I much prefer the basic offerings of a lot of Languedoc estates to the top of their range. I have developed the reflex of avoiding bottlings called "Prestige" and the like unless I know from drinking experience or reliable recommendation that the wine is good for me.

This thread together with a post from TomHill in the yeast thread convince me that I should investigate Sicily and particularly Nero d'Avola much more thoroughly. I did the same with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo a few years ago and am now a firm fan.

A first visit to Sicily beckons.

I completely agree with both of you about avoiding the prestige cuvées of most wineries in southern Italy and Sicily; they are often gruesomely over-oaked, for one thing. (This isn't necessarily due to the crass taste of some US journals, as the Gambero Rosso blunders down the same oakfruitbomb path most of the time.) Obviously this isn't true of the best producers, who allow the quality of their best fruit to speak for itself, and I would encourage seeking out those producers, as there is the same gulf between commercial Nero d'Avola and the best wines from eg Gulfi or Feudo Montoni* as there is between bad Chianti and Castell'in Villa or Le Pergole Torte.

* I import the latter, but not in the states where most of you live.

I completely agree with both of you about avoiding the prestige cuvées of most wineries in southern Italy and Sicily; they are often gruesomely over-oaked, for one thing.

Oliver--
Would you (or Tim or Robin) include Tasca d'Almerita's "Rosso del Conte" in this category?

[Robin Garr]

I completely agree with both of you about avoiding the prestige cuvées of most wineries in southern Italy and Sicily; they are often gruesomely over-oaked, for one thing.

Oliver--
Would you (or Tim or Robin) include Tasca d'Almerita's "Rosso del Conte" in this category?

Not a familiar label to me, Clinton,

(Long ramble deleted ... I got my threads crossed and tried to answer a Nero d'Avola question with a Chianti answer. )

I love Nero d'Avola - very dependable wine, seemingly regardless of who makes it, and always a good value. And most of them I've tasted have had a mineral component that at least makes you believe you can taste the volcanic soil. If the Sicilians would only take their wine making a bit more seriously, I think Nero d'Avola could one day stand next to Anglianico as one of Italy's potentially great wines.

I completely agree with both of you about avoiding the prestige cuvées of most wineries in southern Italy and Sicily; they are often gruesomely over-oaked, for one thing.

Oliver--
Would you (or Tim or Robin) include Tasca d'Almerita's "Rosso del Conte" in this category?

Clinton,

Haven't had it, sorry.

The Gambero Rosso is giving lip service to more authentic wines, but for the most part 'Tre Bicchieri' still means 'overdone.'

... most of them I've tasted have had a mineral component that at least makes you believe you can taste the volcanic soil. If the Sicilians would only take their wine making a bit more seriously, I think Nero d'Avola could one day stand next to Anglianico as one of Italy's potentially great wines.

um, not too sure about this. Aglianico has a track record for aging and seems to have the polyphenols and stuffing for aging and gaining from it. The few Nero d'Avola's I've had struck me more like Lagrein to me: simple, fruity (but hardy) reds that may age, but I feel won't gather other interesting elements along with it. If you want to taste volcanic, try some Nerello Mascaslese from the same island, sold more by appellation than my variety since it's usually blended with cousin grapes, so look for Etna Rosso and Faro (tiniest DOC in Italy farmed by Palari). Beware that these are not cheap, running $30 and up.

... most of them I've tasted have had a mineral component that at least makes you believe you can taste the volcanic soil. If the Sicilians would only take their wine making a bit more seriously, I think Nero d'Avola could one day stand next to Anglianico as one of Italy's potentially great wines.

um, not too sure about this. Aglianico has a track record for aging and seems to have the polyphenols and stuffing for aging and gaining from it. The few Nero d'Avola's I've had struck me more like Lagrein to me: simple, fruity (but hardy) reds that may age, but I feel won't gather other interesting elements along with it. If you want to taste volcanic, try some Nerello Mascaslese from the same island, sold more by appellation than my variety since it's usually blended with cousin grapes, so look for Etna Rosso and Faro (tiniest DOC in Italy farmed by Palari). Beware that these are not cheap, running $30 and up.

Well, I must confess that I all the N d'A I've had has been $15 or less - I haven't had a really top notch one. But there's something Syrah-ish about its structure, and I had always imagined that in the right hands it could be made into something really amazing. Could be wrong though - just a hunch. Best wishes!