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WTN /Wine Advisor: Hearty California red blend

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Robin Garr

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WTN /Wine Advisor: Hearty California red blend

by Robin Garr » Fri Sep 26, 2008 9:34 am

Hearty California red blend

So far this week we've offered a classic French Chardonnay from Chablis and a delicious value red from Sicily. Let's wrap up the week by swinging around to California for a taste of an offbeat, affordable red blend from a historic Russian River Valley producer.

Foppiano Vineyards, a landmark winery in the Sonoma County village of Healdsburg since 1896 (hence "Lot 96"), hails that history with this tasty, affordable red wine.

Lot 96 takes a bow in the direction of California's historic "field blends" with 19% Petite Sirah, 17% Zinfandel and 14% Carignane in the mix. But it adds a twist with a hearty dose of 28% Sangiovese, the primary grape of Tuscany's Chianti but not a variety that's gained much traction in Northern California despite the region's strong Italian heritage. Then, to put the icing on the cake, it adds splashes of the Bordeaux varieties Merlot (10%), Cabernet Sauvignon (9%) and Cabernet Franc (3%).

Frankly, I might not expect such a varietal slumgullion to yield an appealing mix, but Foppiano makes it happen, perhaps by making no real effort to emphasize varietal fruit in its grape sourcing or vinification.

As the winery Website ( http://www.foppiano.com ) states, "Lot 96 reflects Foppiano's original roots, dating to 1896, still family owned and operated. Lot 96 is ... a great value wine ... a wine that you can simply enjoy with your everyday meals and share with your family and friends."

That's a fair summation. Plums and cherries, juicy black fruit and snappy acidity come together to make it a good, simple red wine designed for enjoyment at the table. It's a decent value at the $12 winery price, which was mirrored at my neighborhood wine shop; it's an even better buy if you can find it discounted; Wine-Searcher.com shows it on sale as low as $7.49 in some markets.

Foppiano Vineyards "Lot 96" California Red Wine ($11.99)

Dark purple, with ruby glints. Aromas of plums and cherries, juicy black fruit, carry over on the palate with fresh acidity and a distinct edge of tannins. A good, simple red wine designed for enjoyment at the table. (Sept. 13, 2008)

FOOD MATCH: It made a great match with hamburgers fashioned with natural local ground beef, served on mini-Pugliese rolls. On the other hand, I wouldn't turn it down with pasta with meat sauce, pizza or even a steak.

VALUE: Excellent value at this price, better still where discounted.

WHEN TO DRINK: It's made to drink now, but I'm in little doubt that it will still be drinking well after five years of cool cellaring.

WEB LINK: This long link on the winery Website describes a similar wine, although slight differences in the particulars suggest it may be a different bottling:
http://www.foppiano.com/wine.asp?wine=L ... 0Bin%20002

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Find vendors and check prices for Durbanville Hills Sauvignon Blanc on Wine-Searcher.com:
http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Foppi ... g_site=WLP

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Redwinger

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Re: WTN /Wine Advisor: Hearty California red blend

by Redwinger » Fri Sep 26, 2008 9:37 am

Sounds interesting. I'll pick some up if I see it on the North Shore of the Ohio River.
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Clinton Macsherry

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Re: WTN /Wine Advisor: Hearty California red blend

by Clinton Macsherry » Fri Sep 26, 2008 9:50 am

Robin Garr wrote:...slumgullion...


Robin, thank you for introducing me to my favorite new word of the year.

Is this a non-vintage bottling? Wine-searcher seems contradictory on the question.
FEAR THE TURTLE ! ! !
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Re: WTN /Wine Advisor: Hearty California red blend

by Robin Garr » Fri Sep 26, 2008 10:20 am

Clinton Macsherry wrote:
Robin Garr wrote:...slumgullion...


Robin, thank you for introducing me to my favorite new word of the year.

Is this a non-vintage bottling? Wine-searcher seems contradictory on the question.

Clinton, yeah, I'm sorry, I guess I should have devoted a line to clarify. This does appear to be a non-vintage wine under the Lot 96 label. If you go to the Foppiano Web link (the long one provided), there is some evidence that they release it in batches with some batch differences in the blend, but they are very unclear about that, and it's not mentioned on the label.

Again, I think this is consistent with them making it as a casual, old-fashioned table wine that's not really varietal in character.

As for "slumgullion," it's a fine word, one that deserves to be saved from obscurity. :mrgreen:
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John Treder

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Re: WTN /Wine Advisor: Hearty California red blend

by John Treder » Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:59 am

Yes, the Lot 96 is non-vintage, but they do release a red and a white every year.

I tasted them both when I visited the winery Wednesday, and I'm in agreement with Robin. The sangiovese gives it an edge that lifts it a bit out of the stone soup category.
But what I bought was some 1988 Petite Sirah, as well as a few bottles of the current release 2005 PS. The '88 is a grand old lady and will be better with roast beef, I think, than anything else. The '05 is Youthful Exuberance with a healthy tannic backbone, and should be good for 5 or 10 years, but it won't last that long in my cellar.

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