WTN /Wine Advisor: How old can Beaujolais go?

I don't mean to be a negative nelly, BUT, if a wine is not made to age, why bother? I actually forgot I had a bottle of Beaujolais that had been given to me during crush, I put it away meaning to come back to it but didn't. When I found it in a corner of my cabinet I brought it up and opened it. 2004 Joseph Dreuhin. It was gone.

True, there may be a few, rare, Beaujolais made to age. But if so, they are not the wines brought out for the 3rd weekend of November.

Maybe the question should be: How old Should a Beaujolais go?

ted

Last year, I had an absolutely mind-blowing fresh Beaujolais from 1928. The wine was served blind and we all were shocked by the freshness and good performance of this wine.

Label: http://www.snakvin.com/foto/albums/user ... MG3981.JPG


Cheers,
Martin

Maybe the question should be: How old Should a Beaujolais go?

If that is indeed the question, the answer is 'to the point that you like it best.' So if I like it three years old, and Robin likes it ten years old and you like it 6 months old, all are correct.

But the question was how old can it go.
Hence, the myriad annecdotal responses.
Best, Jim

It's probably worth pointing out at least a couple of the major styles being produced in the region and discussing their ability to age.

1. Industrial plonk and nouveaux (mostly, but not all, plonk) for immediate consumption.

2. Carbonic and semi-carbonic can be terrific, including producers like Lapierre and Descombes. The good ones tend to show fresh, fruit-forward, and great purity. I've never had an old one but wouldn't pick these as candidates for long-term development. But I wouldn't hesitate to hold for five years or so.

3. Traditional, Burgundian elevage. To me, the standouts here are Coudert and Desvignes. I don't know about Foillard's elevage, but I could see them improving for a decade or more. On the Coudert Tardive (which comes from vines that, back in the day, were classified MaV), I had the 2002 a year or so ago and didn't think it was remotely ready -- I've heard the same from others. The 1998, on the other hand, was spectacular, at least as compelling as an 18 year old Chevillon that night:

• 1998 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (7/31/2007)
  All I can say is, wow! That was fantastic! Forget everything I said about the tardive being for early consumption. This was one great bottle of wine: layer upon layer, deep as you could want without anything forced. Just an incredible bottle. It's in a perfect spot now but not in any danger of falling apart.
• 2002 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie (7/26/2007)
  I'll echo that my bottle was in a bit of a weird place. It opened quite primary, but also seemed tired at the same time. It has the usual dark fruits and earth. Perhaps it will fill out?

Edited to add: By the way, the basic Brun, before the plastic corks, easily made it 5-7 yrs, as do the Vissoux and Coudert regular bottlings.

Robin,
I know that you're writing this for the masses and so seek to dispel the image of Beaujolais as light, inconsequential stuff. Still, I must relate to you my experiences tasting with a vigneron in Fleurie, now sadly retired and his vineyards sold off (no heirs), who told me in '01 of having recently opened up a '47 Fleurie that was drinking fabulously and was a Côte d'Or deadringer. Several of those biggers Crus, especially Morgon and M-à-V, are reputed to be capable of improving with decades of age and taking on the character of aged Pinot Noir in top years when made "seriously." All the more reason to decry the production of "Bojopiffle" -- as a friend of mine puts it.

Mark Lipton

I've been lucky enough to taste an ancient Cru (Morgon I think it was) from '47 - the label was so worn that nothing else is known about the wine. But this anonymous producer's wine was not only hanging on, but was still vibrant! This experience was early in my wine geekdom, so I don't know how I would describe it now, but my recollection of the wine is that in its grouse-blood and meat aromas it was more like a Northern Rhone than a Burgundy. But with such limited information still visible on the label, who knows what was actually in the bottle.

-O