1996 Lynch Moussas, Paulliac, Bordeaux
I became interested in the wines of Lynch Moussas after Covert Harris raved about a vintage or two. Frankly, until he mentioned it, this producer had escaped my notice which isn't all that surprising considering I'm on the under-served west coast and it's a very traditional producer pretty much ignored by Parker. For which I give thanks, as I was able to score a trio of 96's at auction for relatively little money about three years ago. This was the last bottle and the best: modest brett upon opening which sloughs off leaving a loamy funk on the restrained cassis and plum fruit with the obligatory paulliac pencil shavings. This bottle was fuller bodied than the other two (the last about 18 months ago) and fully mature with smooth tannins. There's a faint but pleasant merlot-ish powder sugar sweetness in the nose, but on the palate it's more savory than not with notes reminded me of fresh parsnips roasted with herbs de provence. A very solid, masculine, unfrilly style Bordeaux that might hold here awhile but I don't think it's going to improve from this point. Must add that I enjoyed this a lot, though it wouldn't be my favorite Bordeaux by any means.
Must add a note about food pairing: this wine could be a poster child for Wines That Need Food, because when sipped with cold, rare grilled Tri-Tip every flavor more than doubles in size and depth. It made me think about the lamb vs. beef argument for Bordeaux, and wondered who on earth could think there's a better match for this wine than this. I wouldn't have traded!