Moss Wood Chardonnay 2005, Margaret River, A$62 (~US$47 / ~ €34)
A bottle with a cork closure showed a honeyed/dark sugar syrup and a baked nose that was lacking. I suspect it had suffered heat stress and subsequent oxidation. A replacement bottle of the same vintage but closed under screwcap was a definite improvement. The nose showed lemon and sharp-yet-ripe green apple aromas with (as it warmed up) nutty aromas (hazelnut becoming more walnut), perhaps some pastry, and a touch of lees-imparted mealiness. With air, the beautifully integrated oak became more nut-toast orientated and a lovely vegetal scent developed (of the kind that mature white Burgundy attains). This had a complex, well integrated and balanced nose. The palate offered less complexity, with some lime cordial, and the finish was a little sharp, but it was nevertheless enjoyable with its smooth and reasonably full mouthfeel. But to fault it, it was perhaps too subtle in its complexity; not forthcoming even when searched. It’s perhaps unfair to make such comparisons, but for me Burgundy is still the international apogee of Chardonnay and this is one of the most “Burgundian” styled Aussie Chardonnays I’ve had, so I can understand why it has the reputation it does. For me, it is certainly well made and enjoyable to drink, but it doesn’t quite offer enough.
Freycinet Vineyard Chardonnay 2006, TAS, $32 (~US$24 / ~ €18)
Much paler than the Moss Wood, and more green than gold. The nose was more lifted, more sweet stone fruit orientated, and comparatively more (though not absolutely) herbaceous. The palate was smooth enough, yet more astringent than the Moss Wood. The oak is present but doesn’t do much (no vanilla/nut/spice). A lighter, fresher styled Chardonnay that certainly isn’t as complex (though it is half the price). It’s a bit like they made a New World Sauvignon Blanc out of Chardonnay grapes! OK to drink, but I wouldn’t buy it again. It smacks a bit of the “new wave” Aussie Chards with their restraint to the point of lack (IMO). It became increasingly boring/uninspiring with continued drinking.
Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Margaret River, $32 (~US$24 / ~ €18)
Ripe inky blackcurrant and blackcurrant bush, cedar, spearmint, dusty, hint of handbag leather, lift by damson. A juicy fresh palate with chalky tannins, inky blackcurranty mid-palate and acceptable finish.
Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Coonawarra, $40 (~US$30 / ~ €22)
A very different nose of dried out dark berries, dry prune, smouldering charred wood and old boot leather. Smooth and soft on the palate but with substantial tannic structure, vague dried fruit (more briary than blackberry) and some of that charred flavour and leather, with accompanying soft acidity. A more interesting palate than the Vasse Felix, and a longer finish. Is it worth $40? I guess it depends on your preferences, and it’s worth bearing in mind this would be cheaper at release too.
The Vasse Felix is simpler than the Wynns, but is more approachable. It’s an enjoyable juicy wine with enough complexity to maintain interest. The Wynns is more about flavours other than fruit, which is nice! They both represent their respective region’s style pretty well too (I tasted them blind and it was easy to guess which was which).