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WTN: Burgs, Bdx, & Rheinhessen

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Burgs, Bdx, & Rheinhessen

by Dale Williams » Mon Oct 06, 2008 9:01 am

With leftover lamb, a half bottle of the 1999 Quinault L'Enclos (St Emilion). I'm not a strict traditionalist re Bordeaux, as noted I just liked a Barde Haut, but this is a bit over the line for me. Cassis fruit is intermixed with blueberry jam, big toasty oak still rampant. Sweet and low acid, some drying tannins. Good length. I'm sure many would like it, but not something I would buy again. B-

Also over two nights a bottle of the 2004 Gunderloch Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling (I didn't see any other designation, but in CT they only list a Spatlese trocken from NP, and tastewise this would fit- pretty dry, 13% abv). Quite open and giving from beginning. Big expansive aromas of stone fruits with a hint of petrol on the nose. On the palate just a teeny hint of sweetness, yellow plums and nectarines, good length, an almost Mosel-like slatey note, a nice bottle. B+/B

Sunday Betsy was in city in early evening, I was in charge of dinner. I was determined to use up some vegetables in fridge (one container of brussels sprouts, half a big bulb of fennel, 2 leeks). I grilled (pre-braised)fennel and leeks and put in separate vinaigrettes, simmered the sprouts, and made a Pepin recipe for chicken thighs with mushrooms. Cooking wine was part leftover Riesling plus a bit of the 2006 Cave de Lugny "Les Charmes" Macon-Lugny. At first sip I thought this awful (dilute, acrid, underfruited, overcropped) but a revisit showed not so bad. It is thin, but whether it was my lowered expectation on second sip or even just a little air helped, but in any case it was at least drinkable, and acceptable as a $7 cooking wine. Light pear fruit, high acidity, no apparent oak, short but not unpleasant. I used to think this a good bargain 6 or 8 years ago, not sure if it is wine that changed, my tastes, or variation (this is maybe the French wine I see most in stores, must have huge production numbers, not sure how they could ensure uniformity). C+

Dinner wine also wasn't as good first sip. Upon opening 2004 Michel Lafarge Côte de Beaune Villages I thought I got a little bell pepper with the red fruit. I can take a little bell in a Cab, but in Pinot- shudder!!! But after a little break to finish cooking I found a different wine. There's still just a hint of greenness, but it's coming across as a light herbal note, not green pepper. The real thrust of this wine is very pretty and bright red cherry fruit, with slight accents of earth, spice, and herbs. Revisited after dinner it's showing a bit darker cherry fruit, the herb notes have disappeared, just earth and a touch of cocoa above the fruit. I enjoy. B+/B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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