Matt Richman arranged a Leoville-Leoville showdown, comparing some mature (or maturing) Bartons and Poyferres. Paul Jauoen arranged for dinner at Morton's , nice meal (though while steaks are always good, I'm still perplexed as to an appetizer to have with red Bordeaux, I chickened out with a salad).
Ruinart Rose Champagne
I THINK this was a NV. Crisp dry bubbly, strawberries with just a hint of a bready note, very good. B+
1993 Leoville Poyferre
This one was a solo flight. Nose was pretty good, lots of red currant and mint. The palate was quite a letdown from the nose, somewhat flat and tired with a little hint of green. C+
then mini-horizontal flights:
1983 Leoville Barton (magnum)
Cassis, tannins, leathery. B-
1983 Leoville Poyferre
Sweeter fruit, a ferric mineral note, also a bit of drying tannin. B-/B
I liked both more than table. Both of these might have benefited from more air (opened just before serving), meant to try the Barton again, but leapt up for a train.
1989 Leoville Barton
Denser and more tannic than the Poyferre, needs time. B+
1989 Leoville Poyferre
Really quite nice, rounder, softer, seems fairly ready to me. B+/A-
1990 Leoville Barton A-
1990 Leoville Poyferre A
Steaks must have come right here, I have zero written notes on either. I do know I like both a lot, my favorite flight,.with the Poyferre being my WOTN, nice ripe fruit balanced with fresh acidity, great concentration and length. Barton was less flamboyant, but almost as good.
1982 Leoville Barton
This is initially striking me as somewhat dumb and closed. Once Paul says he thinks it's corked I can get a little cardboard. Flawed.
1982 Leoville Poyferre
This is excellent. Nicely resolved tannins, some cassis mixed with redder fruits, fresh, cigarbox and a little leather. Good length. Not huge, more elegant. A/A-
1995 Leoville Barton
Not as open/giving as the Poyferre, but not totally austere. Rich dark fruit, tannic, needs time. B+
1995 Leoville Poyferre
Surprisingly open, soft. Easy to drink, lush fruit, some graphite, good length. B+/A-
1996 Leoville Barton
If the 1995 needs a little time, this needs a lot. This is stern and reticent, but I think there's a lot underneath here. B for now, A- potential.
1996 Leoville Poyferre
This is the one I have several of, and I felt it showed weird this night. Ripe jammy nose, some kind of funky shroomy thing, better on palate, but I didn't love tonight. Tannic. I've liked a lot more before. B
1983 Grahams Vintage Port
Didn't get a decant. That combined with those yucky little port glasses meant this was a bit tight. Plums and prunes, a little cocoa, some orange peel. Wish I could have nursed this longer. B tonight, probably deserves more.
1989 Milz Laurentiushof Trittenheimer Felsenkopf Beerenauslese
Only a half bottle for 9 guys, but a little goes a long way. Ripe apricots drenched in honey, good acidity, just a hint of diesel and some white flowers. A-/B+
I don't think anyone didn't think Poyferre outperformed Barton on this night. Of course, I think if we had included '85/'86/'88 (or some earlier vintages) that might not have held up. But little doubt this evening. Nice night, though political talk with knives on hand is always a little unnerving. Good group, good time.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.