A few NY area wine geeks got together last night to welcome Alex R , visting from Bordeaux, and Patrick M, flying in from Colorado. We gathered at La Sirene in SoHo, Management kindly let us order off the early bird prix fixe though we were later, food was good but I think next time I'll order a la carte again. I did enjoy my onion soup and duck liver salad.
Opener was a bubbly from Jeff, the NV Jacquesson No. 730. I loved the 728 & 729, and initially thought this a bit of a disappointment. Not a lot of fruit, not a lot of breadiness, not a lot of anything. But air helped a lot, and a glass later was tasty even when warm - leesy, nutty, with "apple betty" fruit. B-/C+ cold, B warm (I'm betting if well-aired and cold it would be even better).
1993 Morey-Coffinet "Les Caillerets" Chassagne-Montrachet 1er
A little reticent at first, this opened nicely. Fairly typical for the vintage, with high but for my tastes balanced acidity. Full-bodied, pear fruit with nuts and mineral notes, just a little oak still apparent. This was last one, showing better than about 5 years ago, I'd say drink up, but no hurry. B+
2004 Rene & Vincent Dauvissat "Sechet" Chablis 1er
This was also really in a shell at first. Acids and a funny cheesy note were all I got. After a while some Granny Smith and lemon notes. I never got much minerality here, but probably a function of its youth. B?
1989 Comte Armand "Clos des Epeneaux" Pommard 1er Cru
At Ian's request I had grabbed this at last minute instead of a '70 Canon. Worried the warm vintage and the Armand style might have led to an early demise, but this was quite lively and even young. Quite tannic, but with a solid body of black cherry and plum fruit, some earthiness, a little vanillin note. Develops a fairly plush texture with some time. I like, but can't help thinking a bit more acidic backbone would make this more elegant and delineated. I'll give it a B/B+, lovers of the style might rank a bit higher.
1989 L'Evangile (Pomerol)
This is a wine I loved before, and often kick myself for only getting a couple of bottles when CSW had at a good price few years ago. Despite less than optimal stemware (Chris kindly loaned me one, but also had to use restaurant stems, a bit more rudimentary than ones they had last time), with some air this showed class. Still young, ripe cassis and blackberry liqueur, a hint of saddle leather, some tannins. Needs time,but my red WOTN. Thanks Ian. B+/A-
1996 Lafon-Rochet (St Estephe)
Alas, corked!
1995 Haut-Bailly (Pessac-Leognan)
Continuing the theme of the night, tight and reticent at first. But one could sense the quality from the beginning, and it started to open up to a beautiful Graves. Red and black currants, a strong streak of ferric/gravel minerality, a touch of tobacco, medium bodied. Elegant Graves. Makes me wonder why I don't have more Haut Bailly. B+, with much upside.
1996 Gloria (St Julien)
I told Alex that Gloria (the '82) was first wine to make me really pay attention. I remember not being impressed by the '96 near release, but this has turned out nicely. Soft, round, ready. with dark plum fruit, mostly resolved tannins. B
2001 Nairac (Barsac)
I think this is my first ever Nairac. Lighter style of Sauternes, with that vivid 2001 acidity. Tropical fruit, a touch of vanilla, lighter edge of botrytis than some. Very nice. B+
Nice night, nice group, hope Patrick and Alex enjoy rest of their stay.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
