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WTN: onion pizzas w/CFE and rose, +Valtellina,PS, Sauternes

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Dale Williams

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WTN: onion pizzas w/CFE and rose, +Valtellina,PS, Sauternes

by Dale Williams » Mon Oct 27, 2008 11:46 am

Friday we had a friend and her two boys over for dinner, while the dad is in Paris for a month (poor Alex). Betsy made a couple of pizza/flatbreads, a pissaladiere and a tarte flambee. I opened a wine for each. For the pissaladiere, no Provencal rose on hand, so went a bit northeast of Nice, to the Vallee d'Aoste.  The 2007 Larmes du Paradis Rosé was  a pleasant light red, with fresh strawberry fruit and good acidity. Not a lot there, but what is there is tasty. B

For the tarte flambee/flammekueche, the 2001 Trimbach "Cuvee Frederic Emile" Riesling.  Wow, this is young but yummy. Clean crisp pears with a dollop of ripe peaches, totally dry but with a impression of sweetness to the fruit. Wet stones, earth, a whiff of petrol. Medium-bodied but with a sense of strength. Good acidity, excellent length. A-/B+ with potential to be a truly great CFE.

Saturday Betsy made duck legs with turnips, along with braised escarole with a little sausage. Recipe called for a cup of red wine for recipe and a rustic unpretentious red as an accompaniment; it was easier to open bottle on counter than to go to cellar. The 2005 Vinum "Pets" Petit Sirah (Clarksburg) actually belonged to my dog, it was a gift at her birthday party. But Lucy doesn't drink so we consumed. For a PS this isn't very tannic. Fruit forward, with blackberries and black plums with just a hint of peppery spice. A bit on simple side, but enjoyable, and Betsy liked. B/B-

Sunday I was working running a meeting all day. Betsy used up rest of her duck legs in a ragu (with cloves, cayenne, and sweet wine) from a Batali recipe. When I came home I opened the 2004 Sandro Fay Rosso di Valtellina. Lighter end of Nebbiolo, spicy red fruit with good acidity, a bit of earth and tar. Gets more interesting with some air. Not heavy, but quite decent length for a $14 wine. B

Recipe had called for vin santo, which I didn't have, so had I had given Betsy a bottle of Sauternes I had somehow acquired, the 2000 Saint-Amand "Grands Vignes" Sauternes. Half a bottle left, I had a small glass with some blue cheese after dinner. Sweetness approaches cloying, this needs more acidity. Canned apricots, not much for complexity. C+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
 
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: onion pizzas w/CFE and rose, +Valtellina,PS, Sauternes

by Rahsaan » Mon Oct 27, 2008 4:03 pm

Dale Williams wrote:2001 Trimbach "Cuvee Frederic Emile" Riesling.  Wow, this is young but yummy. Clean crisp pears with a dollop of ripe peaches, totally dry but with a impression of sweetness to the fruit. Wet stones, earth, a whiff of petrol. Medium-bodied but with a sense of strength. Good acidity, excellent length. A-/B+ with potential to be a truly great CFE.


Sounds like you got some pleasure from this one. There seem to be a lot of recent reports where some people find it great and showing lots of potential while others find it difficult to drink right now. Perhaps it depends on personal preferences.
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Re: WTN: onion pizzas w/CFE and rose, +Valtellina,PS, Sauternes

by Dale Williams » Mon Oct 27, 2008 4:41 pm

I'm sure it's just preference. It's pretty seldom I find a white wine difficult to drink, though I often think there will be improvement. Maybe a really big (14% abv with lots of extract) dry Riesling. Or sometimes I find white Burgs and CBs that I think are really closed, but that's a little different from difficult to drink. Contrast that with reds where the tannins often mean I think a young wine doesn't offer any pleasure.

I guess thinking about it oak can also make something hard to drink.

In any case, I found plenty of pleasure here, PLUS potential for even more.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: onion pizzas w/CFE and rose, +Valtellina,PS, Sauternes

by Rahsaan » Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:24 pm

Dale Williams wrote:I'm sure it's just preference. It's pretty seldom I find a white wine difficult to drink, though I often think there will be improvement. Maybe a really big (14% abv with lots of extract) dry Riesling. Or sometimes I find white Burgs and CBs that I think are really closed, but that's a little different from difficult to drink..


I agree that white wine is not the same as tannic red wine in terms of 'difficulty' for drinking. But there are times when it seems like a waste because there is not much pleasure to be had. Which obviously wasn't the case for you here :wink:

I had been debating buying some of this for current consumption and will have to see how I feel. I have definitely been underwhelmed with young and tight Alsatian riesling in the past so I may be a bit more severe in my judgement.
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Jacques Levy

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Re: WTN: onion pizzas w/CFE and rose, +Valtellina,PS, Sauternes

by Jacques Levy » Mon Oct 27, 2008 8:22 pm

We may not be drinking the same wines lately, but we're definitely eating the same food. We had a caramelized onion pizza yesterday, duck confit and duck confit ragu last week.
Best Regards

Jacques

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