by Dale Williams » Mon Oct 27, 2008 11:46 am
Friday we had a friend and her two boys over for dinner, while the dad is in Paris for a month (poor Alex). Betsy made a couple of pizza/flatbreads, a pissaladiere and a tarte flambee. I opened a wine for each. For the pissaladiere, no Provencal rose on hand, so went a bit northeast of Nice, to the Vallee d'Aoste. The 2007 Larmes du Paradis Rosé was a pleasant light red, with fresh strawberry fruit and good acidity. Not a lot there, but what is there is tasty. B
For the tarte flambee/flammekueche, the 2001 Trimbach "Cuvee Frederic Emile" Riesling. Wow, this is young but yummy. Clean crisp pears with a dollop of ripe peaches, totally dry but with a impression of sweetness to the fruit. Wet stones, earth, a whiff of petrol. Medium-bodied but with a sense of strength. Good acidity, excellent length. A-/B+ with potential to be a truly great CFE.
Saturday Betsy made duck legs with turnips, along with braised escarole with a little sausage. Recipe called for a cup of red wine for recipe and a rustic unpretentious red as an accompaniment; it was easier to open bottle on counter than to go to cellar. The 2005 Vinum "Pets" Petit Sirah (Clarksburg) actually belonged to my dog, it was a gift at her birthday party. But Lucy doesn't drink so we consumed. For a PS this isn't very tannic. Fruit forward, with blackberries and black plums with just a hint of peppery spice. A bit on simple side, but enjoyable, and Betsy liked. B/B-
Sunday I was working running a meeting all day. Betsy used up rest of her duck legs in a ragu (with cloves, cayenne, and sweet wine) from a Batali recipe. When I came home I opened the 2004 Sandro Fay Rosso di Valtellina. Lighter end of Nebbiolo, spicy red fruit with good acidity, a bit of earth and tar. Gets more interesting with some air. Not heavy, but quite decent length for a $14 wine. B
Recipe had called for vin santo, which I didn't have, so had I had given Betsy a bottle of Sauternes I had somehow acquired, the 2000 Saint-Amand "Grands Vignes" Sauternes. Half a bottle left, I had a small glass with some blue cheese after dinner. Sweetness approaches cloying, this needs more acidity. Canned apricots, not much for complexity. C+
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.