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BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

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Keith M

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BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Keith M » Thu Oct 30, 2008 12:35 pm

First the bitter that works . . . and, boy, did it ever--this is one phenomenal beer:

De Ranke XX Bitter. Wevelgem, Belgium. (Belgian IPA) crown cap on top of cork closure, 6% - imported to USA by Shelton Brothers, Belchertown, Massachusetts - appears beautiful sunset gold, huge, I mean huge, white head, smell steely, stony, herbsy, lots of herbal cookies and yeast, sublime and beautiful nose, mouthfeel only slightly thick and very firmly bound bubbles, taste tart cherry yeast upfront, glorious hops, unsweetened raspberry/cherry, my goodness is this beer delicious, firm and finely tuned, complex and repeatedly and unrelentingly refreshing, great with food as well, beer tasted softer and more grapefruit essence (freshly squeezed, mind you) with a sweet soup of Pla Thu Tom Khem (country-style sweet-and-salty mackerel) and the beer was firmer and more direct (tasted like glass, actually, whatever that means) with a sweet and tangy Kwaytiow Sen Yai Neua Sub (fat noodles with sweet black bean sauce and curried ground beef). This beer was phenomenal. 1 pint, 9.4 ounces was not enough. Even at $17, which makes this a mighty pricey beer, this beer was an unbelievable steal—the last sip as incredibly fresh, drinkable, and refreshing as the first.

From importer: XX Bitter is a very weighty beer, aggressively brewed to be the hoppiest in Belgium. Some more delicate palates are put off right away. Those warriors who accept the challenge, and take time to sort through the barrage of sensory impressions, usually end up loving it. It is first of all remarkably hoppy – and it persists in its hoppiness unto the bitter end – but it does not want for balancing maltiness. In the middle is a “barnyard” Brettanomyces yeast character that is very reminiscent of Orval in its heyday.

And the bitter that didn't work . . . wasn't the beer (which was okay, but not my style and not bitter in any case), but the bitter melon in the soup I paired it with. I have cooked with bitter melon once before in an Indian dish and it was similarly a disaster as it was in this Thai soup. I've never had bitter melon prepared for me by anyone else, but at this point I am throwing in the towel on bitter melon. It obliterated the broth with its bitterness and though the sweetness of the shrimp and pork did something to counteract it, it was really just covering up that awful taste of the bitter melon. No doubt I am doing something wrong in prep, or perhaps one has to grow up eating it. In any case, I am finished with bitter melon!

2008 Brasserie Dupont Avril. Tourpes, Belgium (saison/farmhouse ale) sparkling wine type cork closure with year of production marked on cork, wire cage, 3.5% – imported to USA by Vanberg & DeWulf, Cooperstown, New York – appears bright appears cloudy bright yellow, pineapple juice color, smell vibrant and fresh tart melon, pineappley, hefeweizen-type yeast smell, inviting nose, mouthfeel is full, rounded, and very spritzy, taste delicate balance of sweet things, very reminiscent of a banana but with non-banana faint notions of sweetness, clean, tad less precise than I wanted, nicely integrated however, just the banana-like esters on this beer aren't my thing, very well at food pairing, however, with a spicier and fruitier element coming out when combined with brussels sprouts with dijon mustard butter, and a more nuanced grapefruit and wood element that came out when combined with a bitter Kaeng Chued Mara Sod Sai Mu Kap Kung (clear-broth soup with floating islands—with the islands being bitter melon stuffed with pork and shrimp), the light alcohol was a very very nice feature, however, this would make a great lunch beer, but, yeah, not my style on this one, less than $10 for a 750 ml bottle.
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by David M. Bueker » Thu Oct 30, 2008 12:38 pm

I have never figured out why anyone would want to use a deliberately overpoweringly bitter element in food in the first place. Bleh.
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Keith M » Thu Oct 30, 2008 12:48 pm

I wonder if some folks are genetically predisposed to register less bitterness in their tastes (as I seem to recall a similar finding that cultures where spicy peppers are popular taste less of the hot element). In any case, the bitter melon I've cooked pretty much ranks as inedible in my taste scheme.
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Rahsaan » Thu Oct 30, 2008 12:50 pm

Keith M wrote:I have cooked with bitter melon once before in an Indian dish and it was similarly a disaster as it was in this Thai soup...I am throwing in the towel on bitter melon.


You got further than I did.

I used it once and gave up on future uses.
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Jenise » Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:12 pm

Keith M wrote:I wonder if some folks are genetically predisposed to register less bitterness in their tastes...


Definitely true: what is to some people mild and pleasant is to others harsh and nasty.
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Mark S » Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:21 pm

Wusses. I find bitter melon to be about as bitter as rabe or dandelion greens.
It's alll in how you cook it....
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by David M. Bueker » Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:25 pm

I am almost never bothered by bitterness. I just can't stand bitter melon. I think it's disgusting.
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Rahsaan » Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:42 pm

Mark S wrote:I find bitter melon to be about as bitter as rabe or dandelion greens.
It's alll in how you cook it....


I found it to be more bitter than those greens.

How do you cook it?
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Saina » Thu Oct 30, 2008 4:38 pm

De Ranke XX Bitter is also one of my favourites - I must have mentioned that and Thiriez's Etoile du Nord before? But I'm curious as to why the importer describes it as a weighty beer? Yes, the alcohol is moderately high, but I think the massive hops keep it very light and it isn't malty in the caramelly sense so I have always found it to be extremely refreshing and light on its feet. Most well regarded American brews will seem gargantuan compared to this.
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Jeff_Dudley » Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:30 pm

De Ranke XX Bitter is a real tasty brew for me too, a real Belgian gem right next to Piraat amber and the golden wild man, Duvel. I can hardly find it fresh in decent sized bottles here at all, compared to the other two.

I don't mind bitter melon in my Thai salad or soup dishes at all, I just don't crave it cold, as finger food as served in Northern dishes.
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Keith M

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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Keith M » Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:44 pm

Hmmm, makes me wonder what's going on here . . . I love dandelion greens and I love rabe . . . in general, bitter things have an appeal for me as long as they balance with other flavors and textures. And I like my coffee black, my black tea black, chewing on coffee beans, rabidly dark chocolate. I just don't get bitter melon, though.

Indeed, Otto, your worthy appraisal of De Ranke's XX Bitter has appeared in these parts before -- thanks, I obviously enjoyed it greatly. I'm keeping an eye out for Etoile du Nord--but my best beer source at the moment doesn't have it (but has much else to try) . . .
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Mark S » Fri Oct 31, 2008 9:49 am

Rahsaan wrote:
Mark S wrote:I find bitter melon to be about as bitter as rabe or dandelion greens.
It's alll in how you cook it....


I found it to be more bitter than those greens.

How do you cook it?


Lots of water (this somehow dillutes the sharpest aspect of it), meat broth helps (I know this won't help you), and a long cook time can make this tasty. Seeing as how my father-in-law grows mass quantities of these every summer, I always get my chance to eat bitter melon. Of course, if you don't like it, why force yourself to?
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Re: BTN: Bitter that works and bitter that doesn't

by Rahsaan » Fri Oct 31, 2008 10:35 am

Mark S wrote:Lots of water (this somehow dillutes the sharpest aspect of it), meat broth helps (I know this won't help you), and a long cook time can make this tasty.


Interesting strategy. I guess it really does need to be tamed.

Of course, if you don't like it, why force yourself to?


I'm not :wink:

But, always good to keep an open mind. And I haven't had it very often.

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