In the case of the Brunello, my answer is an unequivocal "yes" because the age has opened up the wine, civilized its tannins and made it more complex by allowing the development of attractive secondary aromas. For the other three, I say "probably no".
Brunello di Montalcino “Castelgiocondo” 1993 – Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi seemed so subdued aromatically when I first decanted it that I feared that it had dried out but the worry was misplaced. I5 years since the vintage has darkened the fruit and the Sangiovese tang but both remained present and were complemented by good depth and mouth-feel, secondary flavours of forest floor and old books, good harmony, resolved structure and length; a Brunello worthy of its good name; 16.5/20++.
I wrote enthusiastically about Saint-Joseph 2006 – Domaine Vincent Paris after a tasting and confirm my enthusiasm with food; the aromas and red fruit dominated by sour cherry are exuberant, mouth-feel is velvety and there is good roundness and depth; tannic structure was not much in evidence but is perhaps “enrobed” by the substance. Because of this I would hesitate to suggest any improvement potential but it so delicious now, so why worry? 16/20+.
Coteaux du Languedoc La Clape “La Falaise” 1998 – Château de Negly was smoother than a few years ago but was otherwise remarkably unevolved in colour and taste showing a lot of red and dark fruit and round body with rose petal hints but not otherwise a lot of aromatic expression. Unless it is still holding something back, which I doubt, this is another demonstration that most Languedoc wines may hold well but do not gain a lot by ageing and, indeed, may be preferable with more youthful exuberance and rough edges; 15.5/20.
Tastes differ, of course, but for mine Dolcetto d’Alba 2005 – E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) was at its peak when I tasted it almost exactly two years ago in Ms. Boschis’ presence. I wrote this then.
“This showed an exuberant nose of soft red fruit with an attractively bitter tang followed by a palate which invites quaffing, “gourmand” (untranslatable) is the word; I would like to drink lots of this in the next few weeks as I fear that it will become less exuberant without acquiring much complexity later on.”
Last night, it was more civilized but also more ordinary though still showing attractive red fruit with a wet leather tang, touches of tobacco and nice roundness. An enjoyable wine, which no longer had the magic of its extreme youth; 15/20+.