NB: SEE WINE FOCUS FOR TNs ON RIESLINGS FROM FRANKLAND ESTATE, PEGASUS BAY AND NIGL
The tastings at Ad Bibendum, a Benelux importer located at St.Truiden specialising in New World and newer European boutique wineries, are a “must” for broadening my vinous horizons. This time, I concentrated on the ranges on show from Riesling producers, although it transpired that two of them, Seresin and Felton Road, were showing no Riesling; a great pity in the case of the latter if his Riesling is up to the standard of the four wines which he did show. I also sampled attractions at nearby tables. As always, there were far more wines on show than I could assimilate.
Rocky Gully and Frankland Estate, West Australia
This fine range was presented by co-owner Judi Cullam. This is an estate where “sense of place” (= terroir), harmony and elegance are prized.
I sensed that Judi Cullam was not convinced by her Rock Gully Unwooded Chardonnay 2007 (€11), which she had produced to meet explicit demand; it showed nice peachy aromas but was somewhat bland on the palate; 13/20.
Frankland Estate “Isolation Ridge” Chardonnay 2007 (€15) was another matter; it was wood aged with a total new oak component of less than 10% and showed complex aromas of tropical fruit and minerals and a full, richly burnished but harmonious palate with a fine clean finish; 16/20++.
Frankland Estate “Isolation Ridge” Shiraz 2004 (€18) showed aromas of peppery damson and was harmonious with medium-full body, dark fruit and pepper flavours and a classically linear shape; 16/20+.
Frankland Estate “Olmo’s Reward” 2001 (€23), a Bordeaux blend dominated by Cabernet franc and Merlot, showed nice tangy fresh red fruit with some attractive leather and spice; 16/20.
Pegasus Bay, Waipara, New Zealand
This range was presented by Edward Donaldson.
Pegasus Bay “Maestro” 2001 (€36), a Merlot dominated (75%) Bordeaux blend, was quite similar to Olmo’s Reward above, perhaps a touch denser and rounder; 16/20.
There followed three vintages of Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir (unfiltered). 2005 (€32) enjoyed low yields due to frost and showed nicely pure and concentrated fruit with cherry touches and tang and tannic structure marked at this stage by liquorice and quinine; should age well; 16.5/20. 2003 (€32) was softer, richer, rounder but less structured; ready now; 16/20. 2002 (€32) showed a return to cherry notes marked by darker textures and more structure; fine 16.5/20.
There was an extra dimension of depth, complexity and structure on Pegasus Bay “Prima Donna” Pinot Noir 2004 (€51) with its fine rich fruit; still young and quite tannic; 16.5/20 with ++ potential.
Seresin, Marlborough, New Zealand
I used to be a fan of this estate but in the last three years or so have been less convinced. However, Seresin Pinot Gris 2005 (€23) was very good showing white meat touches in its fragrant bouquet and a fresh dryness mingled into its flavour opulence which many from Alsace should envy; 16.5/20.
I sensed a lack of purity of fruit and focus in the two Pinot Noirs here compared with both Pegasus Bay and Felton Road. Seresin “Leah” Pinot Noir 2005 (€31) was very rich but a touch soggy with over-ripe orange peel notes; 15/20 and Seresin Pinot Noir 2002 (€32) was similar with an added touch of paste on this finish; 14.5/20+.
Felton Road, Central Otago, New Zealand
By contrast I was much more impressed by the wines here today than on the last occasion. The stimulating presence of Nigel Greening, the owner, no doubt helped. The estate works on biodynamic principles applied pragmatically rather than religiously. Greening agrees that the motivational aspect for the team (Jamie’s placebo effect) is important but also stoutly defends the efficacy of some of the preparations; I have no reason to doubt him.
Felton Road Chardonnay 2007 (€36), with a roughly 10% new oak component, showed lovely creamy white fruit but was still a bit raw on the finish; at present I prefer the Isolation Ridge above but I think that this will blossom with more time; 16/20+ potentially.
Three vintages were shown of Felton Road Pinot Noir (all €46). We are back to pure fruit and focus here. 2004, a cool year, is Greening’s favourite and it certainly showed more harmony and elegance in its tangy rich cherry fruit and balanced linear structure; nearly ready and potentially 17/20. 2003 was richer but with less tang and focus, liquorice notes in its more marked structure and a hint of over-ripeness on the finish; 16/20. 2006 was more closed aromatically and still a touch raw with impressive substance and again liquorice notes in its structure; I guess 16.5/20 potential.
Laibach, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Chenin Blanc wooded 2007 (€11) was a far cry from the wines I love in the Loire valley; bland easy drinking with inoffensive wood; 13/20. Pinotage 2006 (€17) showed good dark fruit with good depth and a nicely typical gummy touch which avoided being blatantly rubbery; 15.5/20+.
Bodegas Gancedo, Bierzo, Spain
I was attracted to this stand as a result of my recent enthusiasm for Petalos del Bierzo from Alvaro Palacios and for Godello from Valdeorras.
Two whites; Val de Paxarinhas Bierzo “Capricho” 2007 (€14), made from Godello 75% and Doña Blanca 25%, was quite unlike Valdeorras in its crisp freshness impregnated with citrus fruit, grapefruit and minerals; 15.5/20+++. Val de Paxarinhas Bierzo Herencia del Carricho 2006 (€35), barrel fermented, was amazingly different with a softer texture, great generosity, exotic fruit, pineapple but still with touches of raw plank; 16/20+++ when the wood integrates.
Bierzo Xestal Mencia 2004 (€18) showed dark fruit with a marked sweet cherry component, pepper and structure; would benefit from more time, I think, 15.5/20++++.
Bierzo Ucedo 2004 (€35), 100% Mencia, was quite closed aromatically with impressively concentrated substance and tannic structure; far from ready but probably potential in the 16-17/20 range.
Neither of the above is as polished, harmonious and flavourful as the Palacios entry level Petalos del Bierzo 06 right now.
Ercavio and La Plazuela, Tierra del Castilla, and Dominio de Berzal, Rioja, Spain
The above were represented by oenologist Alexandra Schmedes whose attractive appearance and competent exposition are quite a draw.
I had a curious experience with some bottles which I bought of Ercavio Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla (“VTC”) Tempranillo “Roble” 2005; as its name implies this has short exposure to American oak but when I tasted it a year or two ago its richly explosive fruit quite masked the wood; however two bottles at home were disappointingly dry and tasted of molasses and dry caramel; Ms Schmedes suggested that this could have been an accident in those, but not many other, bottles caused by non-filtration having failed to remove fruit scalping elements. 2006 (€9,50) was again exuberantly fruity (plums), peppery and structured with wood influence effectively smothered; maybe a touch leaner than my memory of the original bottle of 05; a great barbecue wine and great QPR; 15.5/20+++.
Ercavio VTC “Limited Selection” 2004 (€13), Tempranillo 90% and Merlot 10%, sees 12 months in new American oak and its presence was very evident in tobacco notes on its fine full fruit aromas and some dry caramel on the finish; I did not like this feature – 12.5/20 – but Ms Schmedes said that it will integrate rapidly and pointed at 2003 (€13) where, indeed, I could find none of those unpleasing notes, only good fruit and structure with a pleasing wet leather element; 16/20.
La Plazuela VTC 2004 (€46), made from Tempranillo 80% and Garnacha 20% and matured 15 months in new wood 70% French, showed a different level of depth, complexity and concentration with some boiled sweet (bonbon) notes in the aromas and touches of dry caramel on the finish; needs time; 16.5/20 potentially if the wood integrates.
Dominio de Berzal Rioja Alavesa Crianza 2005 (€14), made from Tempranillo 90% with Graciano, Mazuela and Garnacha and made in one-third new American oak, showed attractive fruit with leather and liquorice touches and no obvious wood; 15.5/20++.
I asked Ms. Schmedes why, unlike the Antipodean and Austrian exhibitors, neither she nor the Bierzo estate were using screwcaps. Quite simple, she replied, screwcaps would be a way of guaranteeing nil sales in Spain. She is, however, hopeful that the promising but expensive Vino-lok would be more acceptable.
Tenuta dei Sette Cieli, near Bolgheri, Toscana, Italia
At Ms Schmedes’ urging, I tried the wines from this unfamiliar estate; I’m glad I did. They are unusual in being the only Malbec dominated wines which I have met from Italy; there was a structured leanness with tar and liquorice notes closer to Cahors than to Mendoza.
Yantra Igt 2007 (€13), 40% Malbec, 30% CabSauv, and 30% Merlot, sees no wood and showed attractive tangy fruit with leather and liquorice touches; 15.5/20.
Indaco Igt 2006 (€32), with 40% Malbec and some CabFranc added to the above blend and aged for 14 months in barriques half new, added depth, breadth, concentration and structure to the above flavours; 16.5/20 and 2005 (€32) was somewhat softened by that year’s diluting autumn; 15.5/20++.
Nigl, Kremstal, Austria
The wines of this outstanding estate were presented by Martin Nigl. On all the Rieslings here there was a firmness and warmth towards the finish, which may in part be due to quite high alcohol, but I felt no sensation of burn and lack of harmony. Fine Grüner Veltliner (“GV”), as well, but Riesling with its magic aromatics is closer to my heart.
Nigl “Senftenberger Piri” GV 2007 (€15) showed good intensive of fruit, a lot of apple, and minerals; 15/20. 2005 (€15) was more complex elegant and long with white meat notes; 16/20+.
Nigl “Alte Reben” GV 2006 (€21) was on a different level of richness and depth with notes of honey and smoke and a burnish giving an illusion of some sweetness; 17/20
I think that it was a mistake on my part to come to these two sweeties after the unctuous offerings from Velich which tended to overshadow the finer points here.
Nigl Eiswein GV 2003 (€21 for 37cl) was round rich and concentrated with apple, pear and mineral notes but surprisingly low acidity for an ice-wine; 15.5/20 now but probably development potential.
Nigl Trockenbeerenauslese GV 2006 (€29 for 37cl) seemed to me better balanced as well as more complex than the previous with more acid brightness and notes of botrytis; 16.5/20 with ++ potential.
It is instructive to talk to a grower of Martin Nigl’s calibre. Unlike many Austrians, he is not loquacious but what he says is highly pertinent.
Velich, Apleton, Austria
Opulent wines from close to Neusiedlersee, East of Vienna, presented by Heinz Velich.
Velich “TO” 2006 (€14), made from 85% Chardonnay with Welschriesling and Sauvignon and matured in used wood, was the leanest and showed classical Chardonnay aromas and appealing acidity and minerality; 15.5/20++.
Velich “Darscho” Chardonnay 2006 (€27), matured in 2000l new casks, showed fine rich burnished fruit and attractive minerals spoiled by a cloying note on the finish; 14.5/20.
Velich “Tiglat” Chardonnay 2006 (€47), made from 50 year old vines and matured for 20 months in similar casks to Darscho, was in a different league of distinction albeit more closed but slimmer seeming and showing an elegant linear structure, more minerality and freshness and a clean finish; 16.5/20++.
Velich “Seewinkel” Beerenauslese 2006 (€17 for 37cl), made from Chardonnay, Welschriesling and Bouvier, showed lovely complex and burnished fruit with a lot of apricot, fine botrytis, minerals and bright focus; 16.5/20.
Velich “Schoschto” Beerenauslese 2005 (€19 for 37cl), made from Chardonnay, Welschriesling and Sauvignon, was similar with more of everything including acidity and rich botrytis; 17/20. No wonder it was difficult to taste Nigl’s sweeties after this.