WTN: Morgon, Burgenland, Crete

• 2006 Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py "Réserve" - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (12/6/2008)
  
  
  
  21,90€; 13% abv. I love the uncial calligraphy on the label. I tried this soon after release when it showed a bit of oak even though all the oak is used (I think 2-3yo so not quite neutral yet), but the oak has largely gone to the background by now, which is nice, and only shows itself as a slightly nutty scent. It is a dark and gravelly Beaujolais, reminding me more of the Rhône though it is fashionable to liken good Beaujolais to Burgundy. Full body, strong tannins, moderate-high acidity - it seems to have everything I like in a Beaujolais except that all the elements are still so tight even on the second day open that I guess this must need several years before I'll open the next.
• 2005 Weingut Familie Prieler Schützner Stein - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee Hügelland (12/5/2008)
  
  
  
  30€; 13% abv; Blaufränkisch 80%, Merlot 20%; 20 months in Barrique. This is obviously very young and with the oak much too forward for my tastes: I can't get much else from the scent except ripe dark fruit and oak. The palate, though oaky as well, has more interest with bright acidity, ripe but strong tannins, more elegant and red toned fruit than the nose. A pity about the oak. Quite a disappointment especially having tried Prieler's cheaper but fantastic Johannishöhe Blaufränkisch 2006 which tasted very natural and was a huge delight. I'll pass on this more expensive cuvée.
• 2006 Lyrarakis Syrah Kotsifali - Greece, Crete (12/4/2008)
  16,15€; 12,5% abv; 70% Syrah, 30% Kotsifali; Kotsifali is one of Crete's autochthonous grapes. Deep red. Peppery and meaty scent, it started out in an elegant style of Syrah, even slightly reminiscent of Texier's, but changed to a more darker toned, sweetly fruity style but still retained the attractive vegetal nuances. Medium bodied, well structured, still primarily fruity: nice now, but I think a year or two would make this a very enjoyable drink.

Otto,

Your Crete posting jumped out at me, as I'm moving there for six months in May and am looking very forward to visiting some of the vineyards and drinking the local wine while I'm there. My understanding is that they've been making wine for a very, very long time but are just beginning to utilize more modern techniques to produce better quality. I think I recall reading that there's been a lot of resistance from some of the local farmers/co-ops.

Anyway, the syrah/kotsifali blend sounds interesting. I always think of white wines when I think of Greece.

K

Hello Kyrstyn, that sounds like a lovely trip. I hope you will write on this forum about the Cretan wines you will taste! I hope you will taste all sorts of styles: those ultra-traditionalists who eschew modernist practices can sometimes be the most rewarding of all.

Will you have time from your work to travel a bit north to Santorini? I recently tasted through a range of Vin Santos (TNs: here) that left a very positive impression on me.

-O

p.s. Sorry to be so horribly pedantic, but can you take one "m" away from Somerset Maugham? I really enjoyed his short stories, but it is a long time since I read any. For some reason I never did read any of his novels ... should I?

Hello Kyrstyn, that sounds like a lovely trip. I hope you will write on this forum about the Cretan wines you will taste!

As do I. I recently had just a taste of a Liatiko from Sitia in eastern Crete and it seemed a rather appealing red (particularly with grilled lamb, should I be so lucky to make such a pairing in the future). If I recall what I was told, the name of the grape means the month of July when the grapes are harvested. July!

Learning more about Cretan wines from Kyrstyn would be interesting indeed.

those ultra-traditionalists who eschew modernist practices can sometimes be the most rewarding of all.

I agree!

Will you have time from your work to travel a bit north to Santorini?

Definitely, Santorini is one of my favorite places in the world and I intend to visit it at least twice (but probably more!) while I'm over there. Also going to check out Cappadocia in Turkey.

-O

p.s. Sorry to be so horribly pedantic, but can you take one "m" away from Somerset Maugham? I really enjoyed his short stories, but it is a long time since I read any. For some reason I never did read any of his novels ... should I?

Done! Thanks for the spell check I've only read "Of Human Bondage" and liked it very much.

Otto,

Thanks for the helpful and timely note on the 2006 Burgaud. I'd had it on release and bought a bunch, but then tasted it very briefly a week or two back at a store tasting and my quickie impression was that it had gotten a bit tough. Sounds like that is indeed the case, so stash these away for some rest.

P.S. Have not been to Santorini in 22 years--would love to get back there. One of the worst sunburns in my life happened there on a black sand beach, but otherwise the memories are all great (well, except for some homemade retsina drunk out of a 7-Up 2 liter bottle that I believe took a year off of my life...).

Michael

Crete and Santorini are two of my very favorite places in the whole world, both well worth visiting. One of my fondest memories is of eating at a small restaurant right on the harbor below Ia (on Santorini), selecting our fish from the case inside which was then grilled on a fire next to the restaurant by the owner's father, choosing a local white wine (I don't remember the label, only how satisfying it was), watching a fisherman scaling a fish on the stones which made up the sidewalk along the water, throwing the fish skeletons to the feral cats that were hanging out and mewing near our table. Pure magic. One of those memories that make life worth living.

Agh, the cats and dogs of Santorini. Been there a few times, bloody cats jumped right onto the table harbour-side!

Definitely, Santorini is one of my favorite places in the world and I intend to visit it at least twice (but probably more!) while I'm over there.

Kyrstyn,

Lucky you! If you have not been to Santo Winery on Santorini I would recommend a visit. The wine is not so great but the views are stunning.

Kyrstyn,
Lucky you! If you have not been to Santo Winery on Santorini I would recommend a visit. The wine is not so great but the views are stunning.

Duly noted in trip file, thanks!

Thanks for the helpful and timely note on the 2006 Burgaud. I'd had it on release and bought a bunch, but then tasted it very briefly a week or two back at a store tasting and my quickie impression was that it had gotten a bit tough. Sounds like that is indeed the case, so stash these away for some rest.

Yes, these will require several years - as BTW does the basic Côte du Py also. The '07s are showing much better now. Have you bought any '07s from Burgaud?

Kyrstyn, Cappadocia as well? I'm getting very jealous. I loved Turkey when I rode by bus from Istanbul to Aleppo in easy stages, but I was still in a bit of a hurry to get to Syria so I didn't have time to see everything I wanted (I was very sorry that the weather was so bad on the one day that I could have traveled to Boğazkale and Yazılıkaya that we never actually arrived at the site despite trying for 12hours -I was very much into Hittite studies at that time so persevered.) You will visit the so called underground cities? It might be the most "touristy" thing to do in Cappadocia, but they really are amazing so don't let that put you off.

I have been looking but have not seen any 2007's from Burgaud on the shelves around here. Hopefully soon...

-Michael