December’s edition of la Revue du Vin de France contains a first report on the 2008 vintage throughout France. Here is a summary.
Bordeaux
A wet spring caused late flowering but the summer started quite well. However August through to early September was cool, wet and short of sun resulting in uneven ripening and disease necessitating extensive treatment. Matters then improved with the reappearance of sun and a North wind which dried out the grapes and accelerated maturity. The harvest began unusually late at the beginning of October and lasted all month. Yields were low overall and sugar levels were satisfactory with natural potential alcohol above 12° for the Cabernets and 13° for Merlot; alcohol levels are very high for the whites from Pessac-Léognan. However there is a risk of a mismatch between the physiological and phenolic maturities and consequently of a lack of balance in the wines.
Burgundy
There was a similar weather pattern to Bordeaux. Some growers compare the scenario to that of 2002 but we should not go overboard with enthusiasm. Quality of the grapes was very uneven with large differences in ripeness and health from one plot to another; the grower’s selection will be crucial. The whites are well built with high alcohol and acidity; their balance will emerge after the malos. The reds are prettily fruity and well constituted when made from healthy grapes but judgments should await the end of fermentation.
Alsace
Once again the growers’ decisions will prove crucial. High yields will be punished but, where the vines’ vigour has been restrained, fine healthy grapes high in sugar have been harvested. By mid-October the first VTs were well balanced with good level of acidity. Botrytis appeared late and patience was required to harvest fine SGN.
Rhône
The year was the most difficult since 2002. The summer was dull and favoured the development of disease necessitating continual vigilance. The end of August and early September saw diluvian rain with the feet of many vines under water for several days thus swelling the grapes and weakening their health even further. Patience and drastic selection were necessary and conscientious growers were thus able to produce something decent. However the general quality level will be low.
Loire valley
April frosts halved the production of Muscadet and also affected Anjou and Saumur. The summer was dull and wet through to early September. Then, as in Bordeaux fine weather and a North wind settled in concentrating the grapes, raising levels of maturity and reducing the high levels of acidity. The sanitary condition of the grapes became perfect. Toward the end of the harvest alcohol had risen to 13.5° on Cabernet, Chenin and Sauvignon. The first whites tasted after fermentation were aromatically closed but showed great freshness and length. The first reds presage a good classical vintage like 2002.
Languedoc-Roussillon
Spring was unusually wet and the summer fresh and dry, especially in the west of the region where there was some hydrous stress. There was a splendid but not excessively hot Indian summer except at Faugères which suffered from hail. This has produced good acidity and an aromatic freshness unusual for the region with marked terroir expression. Whites are more consistent than reds which were vulnerable to odium and mildew calling for stricter selection. However, there were no problems difficult to handle for serious growers, who should thus offer a quality vintage.
Champagne
The year was surprisingly good. The summer was fresh with no hydrous stress and early attacks of mildew and odium were mastered. The bunches were not so heavy and juicy as in previous years but their health was remarkable. The acidity is high and the vintage looks favourable.
