The three dry reds in this tasting were chosen for some didactic fun: a friend who only buys inexpensive bottles asked me if it was really worth paying more for better wine. In other words, if you pay double, do you really get double the pleasure? To try to answer this empirically, I picked one bottle from each of the three levels produced by Quinta do Crasto, one of my favorite producers. The conclusion is, of course, in the tongue of the beholder, but while the 100% price differential between the basic Crasto and the Reserva seemed mirrored in the quality department (though not necessarily in the pleasure department), the same could not be said of the differential between the Reserva and the Vinha da Ponte. As Marcia suggested, and perhaps this is a universal axiom, as the quality curve steepens, it appears to cost more and more for a producer to obtain an additional increase in quality, so that prices appear to rise exponentially in exchange for smaller and smaller quality increases.
2006 Weinert Carrascal White 14.0%
A blend of chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc. Floral, fresh and tasty. Good acid/sweet balance. High alcohol well integrated. Straightforward, good QPR.
2006 Weinert Chardonnay Reserva 14.5%
100% chardonnay, oak-free. Slightly cloying but interesting aromas of sweet papaya, cloves, banana and capsicum. Creamy texture, good acidity. High alcohol also well integrated. Interesting wine, but not for those who seek varietal expression (would have never guessed chardonnay). I like this winery when they stick to their knitting and don’t try to keep up with the Joneses (pardon the mixed metaphor).
2004 Laroche Chablis 12.5%
Bottled under screw cap (hooray). Made from purchased grapes. Mineral (chalk) nose, with lime/grapefruit and a touch of butter. Got a whiff of oyster shell, but so slight that I wasn’t sure I wasn’t projecting something I wanted. Then again, I also wanted lanolin, and found nary a whiff. Marcia found it delicious. I found it pretty good for its level, but uninspiring.
2006 Quinta do Crasto Douro 14.0%
A blend of Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional (gotta love those names). Some, if not all, of the grapes were purchased. Wet dishrag and cherry aromas, excellent acid/sweet balance, very pleasant. The perfect restaurant wine and an excellent QPR.
2003 Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Old Vines 14.5%
From 70 year old vines, aged 20 months in American and French oak. Twice the price of the previous and clearly in a higher category. Rich nose of chocolate, vanilla and black cherry. Rich, opulent even. My only gripe is too much oak, especially American oak, which became off-putting after a while. Fine stuff, but not quite my palate.
2000 Quinta do Crasto Vinha da Ponte 14.5%
From 80 year old vines, aged 20 months in American and French oak. Three times the price of the previous and a notch above the Reserva, though the gap between this and the Reserva seemed smaller than the gap between the Reserva and the regular. The aroma was less complex, mainly cassis, but the mouth feel was very classy, almost majestic. Perfect balance, with the oak completely integrated at this point. As the night wore on, it began to oxidize in the glass, suggesting that those who have this should drink up rather than wait.
1997 Niepoort Vintage Port 20.5%
Was a bit too tipsy at this point so don’t remember much except that it was excellent, not too thick or syrupy, with a strong molasses note. But it gave me the final wallop, and the last two guests got the hint when I fell asleep on the couch.