One of the effects of my family being Anglo/Belgian is two Christmas meals, the first on Christmas Eve as dictated by the Belgian (and also French and Italian) traditions and the second on Christmas day as insisted upon by myself. This year, however, the festive atmosphere was seriously blighted by my son’s having broken a rib in a bizarre accident when he fell into a deep hole while crossing a field on foot in the dark of early Christmas Eve morning (approx. 0300 hours); it would seem funny if it were not excruciatingly painful and potentially incapacitating for up to two months.
Nevertheless we proceeded with the meals but my son was not able to partake; a real shame because he loves good wine.
Christmas Eve
With “Boudins de noël” (literally Christmas back pudding but some are white and contain truffles), we drank Champagne Jean Dumagne Brut Rosé 1er cru à Chigny-les-Roses which was nicely dry whilst showing an attractively round pinosity; 15.5/20++.
With scallops and scampi in a lobster bisque sauce, Bollinger Grande Année 1990 showed deep colour verging on the amber, some fatigue and glimpses of sherry presaging oxidisation which, however, only slightly detracted from enjoyment of its unusually round, complex and mouth-filling richness well balanced by still bracing acidity; 16.5/20 but previous bottles were better.
(I think that Champagne is the wine type which suffers most in my passive cellar where temperature peaks at some 20°C (68°F) in warm summers and bottoms at some 11°C (52°F) on cold winters; I reckon that in a more stably cool cellar, a 18 year old 1990 Grande Année should be more vigorous.)
After “bûche de noël” (literally Christmas log, a deliciously light creation in a log shape from top pâtissier Wittamer), Ermitage AOC Valais flétrie (sic) sur souche 2002 – Anne-Catherine & Denis Mercier – made from botrytised Marsanne in Valais Switzerland’s upper Rhône valley was deliciously unctuous and complex with delicate touches of honey but not at all cloying thanks to mineral hints and sufficient acidity; 16.5/20.
Christmas Day
With appetisers, remaining “boudins de noël” and smoked salmon zakouskis, Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 1er cru Blanc de Blancs Non Dosé was wonderfully crisp and pure like spring water over rocks with deliciously citrus and biscuit notes and none of the acidic aggressiveness which mars some “non dosé” Champagne; 16.5/20+++.
Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese 1995 – 25 96 – Dr. Loosen – showed a rich roundness and gently mineral acidity which went very well with duck and goose foie gras without being the match made in heaven which I remember from a more brightly focussed Scharzhofberger 89 a few years ago; 16/20.
Côte Rôtie 1990 – Domaine Jamet – with tasty capon (much better than turkey) and fine truffled stuffing was all it should have been with its elegant aromas of sour cherry, ivy, touches of metal and kirsch and its classical mouth-shape, excellent length and fuller body than in many years; 17.5/20.
(A bottle of 1997 for comparison was ready but left unopened due to one mouth less to feed.)
Finally with Stilton, Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim 1986 showed a very subdued bouquet but was robust, even peppery, and fruity on the palate and was an excellent foil for the cheese; there was none left for dessert (sherry trifle) with which it would have been less at home; 15.5/20++.