WTN: Haut-Médoc, Clairette de Die, Ruwer

1995 Château Lanessan Haut-Médoc [blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot] (Haut-Médoc AOC, Bordeaux, France) cork closure, 12.5% - imported to USA by Masciarelli Wine Company, Weymouth, Massachusetts – appears dark purple with fading edges, smell soft raspberry, gentle spice, nice and soft, light touch of cedar, very nice nose, taste well-integrated, softer, fruity spice, great acid, wonderful pair for grilled lamb loin chops, wonderfully pleasant, very meaty and tobaccoesque, on day two, the wine had moved onto blunt acid with excellent mouthfeel but the favors had long faded away, nice, easygoing wine to drink now, no reason to hold onto it any longer as far as I can tell, not quite worth the $35 I paid, but certainly an excellent demonstration of how lamb and bordeaux can work hand-in-hand.

N.V. Achard-Vincent Clairette de Die Brut [100 percent Clairette] (Clairette de Die AOC, Rhône, southeastern France) mushroom cork with wire cage, 11.5% - imported to USA by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, California – my first wine from the Clairette grape - appears clear, tons of foamy spritz, smell sharp and powerful, concentrated apple/grapefruit, mouthfeel firm, embedded spritz, foamy/spritzy, very much surface friction, taste sharp, grape skins and stones, bit metallic, overly intense in an interesting way, pleasant different and light, when paired with hot and sour soup and dry cooked green beans with shredded pork it morphed toward more light/peppery/bright notes, and eventually tasted like the ginger wine equivalent of ginger beer, vibrant and interesting, when paired with some sweet cookies, it was unpleasantly tart, versatile wine for pairing with food, quite comfortable with this wine for the $20 I paid.

[Edited to remove reference to méthode dioise, as this wine was likely produced by the traditional method.]

2004 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling Kabinett (Ruwer, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany) cork closure, 8% - imported to USA by Valckenberg International, Tulsa, Oklahoma – appears medium dark golden, spritz embedded, smell bright honey, sweetness very integrated, very very nice nose, taste salty zip upfront, slight richness and slight saltiness, delicious and very clean, light green melon tang, increasing elegance in mouthfeel as bottle progress, lovely lime tartness more evident on day two, starts to lose cohesiveness on day three, stood up amazingly to dish of very, very fiery/spicy Spaghetti Nam Phrik Ong (spaghetti with country-style tomato sauce with ground pork and red curry). $28 is pricey, but this wine is more than worth it—what a wine for food!

Edited to remove reference to méthode dioise regarding Clairette de Die.

[David M. Bueker]

The inherent complexity of Grunhaus Rieslings is what makes them ideal for food matching. I think they have a flavor nuance to go with anything.

The inherent complexity of Grunhaus Rieslings is what makes them ideal for food matching. I think they have a flavor nuance to go with anything.

Yup, which makes them so useful to have around--lovely to slowly enjoy on as I cook and likely to match nicely with whatever I'm cooking!

N.V. Achard-Vincent Clairette de Die Brut [100 percent Clairette; Méthode Dioise] (Clairette de Die AOC, Rhône, southeastern France) mushroom cork with wire cage, 11.5% - imported to USA by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, California – my first wine from the Clairette grape

I visited the area including Achard-Vincent in September and I'm now checking back on my notes. Very few people still make Clairette de Die Brut as it has been largely replaced by Crémant de Die made as all Crémants in the Traditional Method. However, I did taste the Clairette de Die Brut 100% Clairette there - wasn't that impressed either (my notes are MUCH shorter than your impressive note but these visits are always such a rush for me, shame ...) - though the rest of his range was really excellent. I have noted 2 years on the lees, and I'm pretty sure this cannot be Méthode Dioise (Ancestrale); I think it must be Traditional Method - I think Kermit Lynch must have made a mistake on the list (it's not on the label is it?). The article I wrote after my visit there has a few explanations of the area/local methods.

N.V. Achard-Vincent Clairette de Die Brut [100 percent Clairette; Méthode Dioise] (Clairette de Die AOC, Rhône, southeastern France) mushroom cork with wire cage, 11.5% - imported to USA by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, California – my first wine from the Clairette grape

I visited the area including Achard-Vincent in September and I'm now checking back on my notes. Very few people still make Clairette de Die Brut as it has been largely replaced by Crémant de Die made as all Crémants in the Traditional Method. However, I did taste the Clairette de Die Brut 100% Clairette there - wasn't that impressed either (my notes are MUCH shorter than your impressive note but these visits are always such a rush for me, shame ...) - though the rest of his range was really excellent. I have noted 2 years on the lees, and I'm pretty sure this cannot be Méthode Dioise (Ancestrale); I think it must be Traditional Method - I think Kermit Lynch must have made a mistake on the list (it's not on the label is it?). The article I wrote after my visit there has a few explanations of the area/local methods.

Excellent article, thanks for posting a link.

The method of production is indeed not listed on the label, so that claim was based on what I was told when I bought it and confirmed by a followup email to Kermit Lynch. I also checked the producer website, but couldn't find this particular wine amongst their lineup. I would be easily convinced that this wasn't produced via the méthode dioise--as it didn't have any of the characteristics that I've read are associated with it--but it'd be great to know for sure.

A question regarding your article:

The main grape grown is Muscat à Petit Grains (shown left) which for AOC Clairette de Die must be at least 75% of the blend, with the balance being Clairette, better known further south in the Rhône. Some of the best Clairette de Die is made with 100% Muscat. Clairette is an acidic grape used in particular here for the dry sparkling wines, previously Clairette de Die Brut but now, with stricter production controls, Cr�mant de Die, in which recent changes to the law state that small quantities of both Muscat and Aligot� must also be included.

If the wine I had is indeed 100 percent Clairette Blanche (not indicated on the label, but what I was told by the folks at Kermit Lynch), it would appear it couldn't be labeled Clairette de Die (as it doesn't have 75 percent Muscat à Petit Grains) or Crémant de Die (as it doesn't have any Muscat or Aligoté). Or is there some other set of requirements for those labeled Clairette de Die Brut--though I would have thought that brut refers only to the amount of residual sugar and wouldn't change component requirements.

Interesting, if confusing, discussion. In any case, I do have a bottle of Méthode Gaillacoise bubbly around, so I will get to experience this ancestrale thing sooner or later.

And I'm not shocked by your reaction to the wine, at first it seemed harsh and overly intense--time for it to open up and food really allowed it to blossom. Luxuries not often available when sampling a significant number of wines on an estate visit.

My sources indicate the the méthode dioise is a variation of the méthode ancestrale, whereby the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks before moved into bottles where fermentation is allowed to continue from the residual sugar still in the wine (rather than restarted with a liqueur de tirage).

We recently tried this:

N.V. Robert Plageoles Gaillac Nature

Totally of the Mauzac grape, apparently the product of a single fermentation, simply bottled before completely finished. In this case, the wine was entirely dry, with a light and very pure taste:


Our bottle had some light sediment at the end related to the slightly cloudy appearance. This does not taste like champagne, but then it is an entirely original product. Extremely clean with very subtle flavors, apples and yeast, no bitterness or tartness at all. Well-received as an apertif, I am hard-pressed to say what changes would constitute an improvement, this is an entirely enjoyable wine to drink, just not terribly sophisticated.

We recently tried this:

N.V. Robert Plageoles Gaillac Nature

Totally of the Mauzac grape, apparently the product of a single fermentation, simply bottled before completely finished. In this case, the wine was entirely dry, with a light and very pure taste:

Our bottle had some light sediment at the end related to the slightly cloudy appearance. This does not taste like champagne, but then it is an entirely original product. Extremely clean with very subtle flavors, apples and yeast, no bitterness or tartness at all.

The one Méthode Gaillacoise sparkler I have tried was similar with the exception that it was noticeably sweet (not completely dry) and perhaps not as clean as the one you described. But, yes, unique and interesting. I'd love to have a méthode dioise to compare . . .

N.V. Robert Plageoles Gaillac Nature...Extremely clean...

Glad to hear it. I have had some bottles of this in the past that tilted a bit funky. But I like Plageoles and am always rooting for their wines to be as good as possible.

The one Méthode Gaillacoise sparkler I have tried was similar with the exception that it was noticeably sweet (not completely dry) and perhaps not as clean as the one you described. But, yes, unique and interesting. I'd love to have a méthode dioise to compare . . .


Glad to hear it. I have had some bottles of this in the past that tilted a bit funky. But I like Plageoles and am always rooting for their wines to be as good as possible.

I wonder if this method doesn't create an unusual amount of bottle (or maybe batch or vintage) variation. it seems less precise than using fully-fermented still wine and dosage.

A question regarding your article:

The main grape grown is Muscat à Petit Grains (shown left) which for AOC Clairette de Die must be at least 75% of the blend, with the balance being Clairette, better known further south in the Rhône. Some of the best Clairette de Die is made with 100% Muscat. Clairette is an acidic grape used in particular here for the dry sparkling wines, previously Clairette de Die Brut but now, with stricter production controls, Cr�mant de Die, in which recent changes to the law state that small quantities of both Muscat and Aligot� must also be included.


If the wine I had is indeed 100 percent Clairette Blanche (not indicated on the label, but what I was told by the folks at Kermit Lynch), it would appear it couldn't be labeled Clairette de Die (as it doesn't have 75 percent Muscat à Petit Grains) or Crémant de Die (as it doesn't have any Muscat or Aligoté). Or is there some other set of requirements for those labeled Clairette de Die Brut--though I would have thought that brut refers only to the amount of residual sugar and wouldn't change component requirements.

Interesting, if confusing, discussion.

Yes, it is confusing ... I think that this is the case of it being a transition period, legally speaking. Clairette de Die Brut is being phased out in favour of Crémant de Die, but they are still allowed to make it. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if what you tasted - and indeed, what I tasted at the cave only last September, was relatively old stock (forgive me Kermit Lynch if I'm wrong) - in fact I see that I've written '05' near my notes implying that it was that vintage even if not labelled so. Certainly it's no longer listed in their brochure which I picked up, even if it is on their website (perhaps not so recently updated). I noted that Achard-Vincent's Crémant de Die is 85% Clairette with 10% Aligoté and 5% Muscat and I preferred the wine to the Clairette Brut, though wasn't wowed. I have an English version of the Clairette de Die AOC generic brochure in front of me and it states: "As for the Clairette de Die Brut it is produced solely using, the white Clairette grape variety with a double fermentation"

What's interesting about Clairette de Die is certainly the 7.5% alcohol sweetish 'Tradition' versions especially those made with 100% or nearly that Muscat. They can be delicious! Do try and find one if you can - am sure Kermit Lynch must import some of this.

Confusing, yes as so many AOC rules, but think the case might be closed!

I wonder if this method doesn't create an unusual amount of bottle (or maybe batch or vintage) variation. it seems less precise than using fully-fermented still wine and dosage.

Having seen it in progress, more or less, I think this could definitely be the case for all Méthode Ancestrale (Dioise/Gaillacoise - and also for Cerdon) wines.

Confusing, yes as so many AOC rules, but think the case might be closed!

Sounds good to me. I'll edit out the reference to méthode dioise in my original post.

2004 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling Kabinett $28 is pricey, but this wine is more than worth it—what a wine for food!

Yes, these are fun wines. FWIW, I'm seeing $25-26 for the 07 Kabinetts.

[David M. Bueker]

Alas that the 2007 Germans were purchased with the weakest dollar imaginable.

Alas that the 2007 Germans were purchased with the weakest dollar imaginable.

Ok. Some of the prices can be a bit wacky. But $25-26 for Grunhaus kabinetts is fair for me.

[David M. Bueker]

Alas that the 2007 Germans were purchased with the weakest dollar imaginable.

Ok. Some of the prices can be a bit wacky. But $25-26 for Grunhaus kabinetts is fair for me.

The 2001 cost me $12.

The 2001 cost me $12.

Nice. I started buying German riesling with the 2001 vintage and I remember seeing most kabinett prices in the mid to high teens.