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WTN: What to expect: sherry, nahe, beaujolais

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Keith M

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WTN: What to expect: sherry, nahe, beaujolais

by Keith M » Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:50 pm

N.V. Bodegas Barbadillo Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Cuco Oloroso Seco [Palomino Fino] (Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO, Andalucia, southern Spain) 19% - appears light cola color, bit murky, smell elements of maple syrup, very nice, dried fruits, figs and such, dried pears, raisin in a pastry, the nose rocks in a way that reminds me of a trockenbeerenauslese, mouthfeel is full, rounded, and comforting, taste is slight saltiness upfront, very slight spice, but rich, tangy and dry, elements of faded french toast sweetness, nice deal of tang, I loved it. Very food friendly and lively. Went great with some very tasty olives.

1983 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Nahe Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel #16 (Nahe, Germany) - imported to USA by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, California - cork closure – appears medium dark gold, slightly lighter rim, super reflective, smell faint rust, very subtle honey, mouthfeel is glass, very faded touch of spritz, taste very pure, rusted honey, wonderful lightly refreshing, after about two hours opens up a bit more and becomes a bit more full, but basically the same profile, tasty, in a very comfortable place, the rustiness I associate with aging, and it was nice to experience that. Beyond the wine, the label is beautiful (one of the most eye-catching I've seen).

2007 Nicole Chanrion Côte de Brouilly Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes [Gamay] (Côte de Brouilly AOC, Cru Beaujolais, Burgundy, France) cork closure, 12.5% - imported to USA by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, California – appears see-thru purple, smell dark, touch of tar, bug spray, taste is intense, touch unstable VA at first, luxurious spice, full and juicy, at first taste it was clearly something, but I cooled it down a bit in the fridge, still a bit intense, abrasive, clearly there was something there and I had chosen the wine to pair with my dish, and wow, did it shine, introducing it with the yam makhua pao (sweet-and-sour roasted eggplant salad) was promising, it stood up solidly. But the shining moment was with the khao man ok kai (chicken and rice with ginger sauce and thai broth). Though the ginger sauce was a bit intense (as I had used Hawaiian ginger instead of the normal stuff, as the normal stuff looked very sad this week), a day to mellow had done it well and the wine, well, the wine: it was outstandingly delicious. It was a wine to be quaffed, to be drunk, not to be sipped/swirled/analyzed. All I know is all I tasted was purity, not precision as the lines weren't perfectly drawn, but purity. It cleansed, it said “I am wine, do not worry, enjoy your meal.” Precisely what the meal called for and what I was looking for. I thought the particular style of the acidity here meant that food really called it out, but even after the meal that wonderful luxuriousness returned, but now, without need for introductions, everything was a bit more relaxed. What a wonderful wine, when one gives it the chance to join the festivities. I'd be interested as well to give that luxuriousness and acid a chance to age a bit. In any case, $22 worked out for this great experience.
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Re: WTN: What to expect: sherry, nahe, beaujolais

by Rahsaan » Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:59 pm

Keith M wrote:2007 Nicole Chanrion Côte de Brouilly Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes I tasted was purity, not precision as the lines weren't perfectly drawn, but purity..


That is exactly what I love about Beaujolais. Reminds me that I need to go out and buy some!
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: What to expect: sherry, nahe, beaujolais

by David M. Bueker » Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:30 pm

Thank you for the note on the Donnhoff. Some folks elsewhere had less than enjoyable experiences with an '83 recently, and took that to mean that Donnhoff wines cannot age. Your results speak to the adage about older wines: there are no good wine, only good bottles.
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Re: WTN: What to expect: sherry, nahe, beaujolais

by Rahsaan » Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:21 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Thank you for the note on the Donnhoff. Some folks elsewhere had less than enjoyable experiences with an '83 recently, and took that to mean that Donnhoff wines cannot age. Your results speak to the adage about older wines: there are no good wine, only good bottles.


I don't know. Keith's descriptions of "dark rusted honey" sound like a wine that is pushing oxidation, at least in my mind. Which was the main complaint for the Nyc folks, was it not? I forget if any of them posted notes on this board but perhaps there were slightly varying opinions about their bottles and if present in the same room Keith might have leaned towards the more positive ones.

Not that bottle variation isn't a big deal. This just doesn't sound like a complete 180 from the Nyc folks. At least from what I can tell over the internet (having tasted neither bottle :D)
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Re: WTN: What to expect: sherry, nahe, beaujolais

by David M. Bueker » Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:25 pm

I would expect 25 year old botrytis auslese to be showing very spiced/dried orange botrytis.
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Re: WTN: What to expect: sherry, nahe, beaujolais

by Rahsaan » Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:29 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:I would expect 25 year old botrytis auslese to be showing very spiced/dried orange botrytis.


Ok. Well yes. And now that I look back at his note I see he mentions "medium dark gold". I was focusing more on the "rustiness" comment and thinking brown.

Impossible to verify without tasting all bottles in question!

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