WTN: A lovely Loire Gamay

Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles (Serge Batard) Gamay 2007 Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France 12% abv; 14,58€

Sometimes a wine touches all the right spots in the brain's pleasure center. It is especially nice when the wine is moderately priced.

I made a pot of something slightly resembling coq au vin and opened up this Gamay with it:



Raspberries, cherries and rocks, ripe fruit but no sign (gladly) of any scents like banana or bubblegum that are associated with the Lalvin yeast. Low alcohol but ripe fruit, crunchy structure, good acidity (though very low according to the technical sheet: only 4,9g/l). The combination of fun and pure Gamay fruit and rocks make this an irresistible drink with a huge evaporation rate. Lovely!

Sounds great! I've been on a roll lately with biodynamic Morgons that have changed the way I think about Gamay, and I want to taste more Loire versions like this one and also the Edmunds St. John.

biodynamic Morgons that have changed the way I think about Gamay, and I want to taste more Loire versions like this one and also the Edmunds St. John.

These Loire ones and then the ESJ ones will show you very different sides of gamay indeed.

Enjoy!

Sounds like I should try a Loire Gamay. I'm only familiar with the Cab Franc. Otto - just to clarify, there are many strains of Lalvin yeast, each with different characteristics. The specific one that gives the banana-fruity aromas you're referring to is 71B. It is unique in those properties. I don't like 71B, but use EC-1118 for many of my wines and GRE in my Riesling. Here's a link: http://www.lallemandwine.us/products/yeast_strains.php.

Sounds like I should try a Loire Gamay. I'm only familiar with the Cab Franc.

You should. Although if you do, note the differences among gamay grown in the Eastern Loire near Cheverny (rounder), in Touraine (famous for the potted plant aromas), in Anjou (dark black and weird), and out here in the West near Muscadet where Otto's crunchy bright gamay was made.

Sounds like I should try a Loire Gamay. I'm only familiar with the Cab Franc.

You should. Although if you do, note the differences among gamay grown in the Eastern Loire near Cheverny (rounder), in Touraine (famous for the potted plant aromas), in Anjou (dark black and weird), and out here in the West near Muscadet where Otto's crunchy bright gamay was made.

Wow, I had no idea you were such a Gamay Hound (or is that Gamay Ranger?).

Wow, I had no idea you were such a Gamay Hound (or is that Gamay Ranger?).

I think there is a close connection between people who like gamay and people who like red Burgundy. Similar profiles and all. Right now I have an income so I can drink more Burgundy, but all through graduate school it was gamay (among other things..)

Sounds like I should try a Loire Gamay. I'm only familiar with the Cab Franc.

You should. Although if you do, note the differences among gamay grown in the Eastern Loire near Cheverny (rounder), in Touraine (famous for the potted plant aromas), in Anjou (dark black and weird), and out here in the West near Muscadet where Otto's crunchy bright gamay was made.

Thanks for that succinct tutorial, Rahsaan. It makes me want to go out and look for a selection. Most available here are those from Marionnet, nicely mineral but not giving an irresistible urge for repeats unlike, say, Vissoux's Fleurie. I remember an amazingly full bodied and structured Gamay from Pierre-Bise in Anjou, 1997 I think; fascination though not quite what I want when looking for a Gamay fix.

I remember an amazingly full bodied and structured Gamay from Pierre-Bise in Anjou, 1997 I think; fascination though not quite what I want when looking for a Gamay fix.

My thoughts exactly.

People need to remember that the Loire is a large and diverse region.

Howie, it was indeed the 71B that I meant - that is the infamous Lalvin strain that causes horrible aromas in wines...

Rahsaan, what is it about Anjou that makes the Gamay dark black and weird?

Rahsaan, what is it about Anjou that makes the Gamay dark black and weird?

I'm no expert but to my knowledge one of the defining differences is that Anjou soils are primarily schiste and volcanic spilite as opposed to the limestone further east in Touraine/Vouvray/Chinon. Limestone holds water better so the grapes can more slowly ripen. One of the issues in Anjou with red and white grapes is that the alcohol and ripeness can proceed very quickly, hence all those high alcohol dry Chenins from Anjou that are completely different from Vouvray and Montlouis. Similarly, this helps explain why the gamays are so black.

There are probably other differences in climate such as fog and humidty but I'm not sure how they play into it.

I've had one Anjou Gamay. I can't remember the name, but I recall the producer doesn't believe in tractors or electricity and he looks like an aging Berkeley street person I also remember the wine being so bizarre with brett that it tasted unmistakeably like strong Peanut Butter

Also try Domaine de la Charmoise Touraine Gamay for more pretty red fruit and mineral quality. The '07 should be in reasonably wide distribution (for a Loire red, that is...). Around $15.