Castagna are one of the new wave Syrah producers in a relatively new region in Beechworth in Victoria. he region isn't really new, Brown Bors have been buying grapes from there for more than 30 years, but there s now a growing movement for boutique producers to set up shop there. Giaconda is perhaps the most revered, but Savaterre, Battaley, Castagna and others are worth paying attention to.
The current vintage is the 05 and isnt cheap at $A75, but it is very, very good. Its mainly Shiraz, with just a spoonful of Viognier included. A northern Rhone recipe but in my mind a distinctly Australian outcome. Younger vintages can be intensely mentholly, white pepper and berry like.
I opened the 99 to get an appreaciation of how these wines age. At 10 years old I think its in its prime, and wouldnt wait much longer to drink the rest. Its still very dark and primary coloured. It opens a bit lean and mean, but some airtime sees this change as the nose rounds out to inlcludes nappa leather and white pepper, with perhaps some plum and that "purple jelly" smell. The palate is nicely integrated now, slightly cedary, tobacco leaf, cigar box, over some lush blueberry, blackcurrant and plum fruit. The acids are a bit angular and out of kilter on the back palate, and the tannins are plentiful and a touch muddy. Perhaps this is starting to dry out a little, but the flavour profile is still delightful.
I don't know if this is exported, but thought it worth sharing as an example of what Australia can do on the non- "gobs of hedonistic fruit" style. Its one of only four Australian Shiraz I buy every year.
Cheers
Andrew
