WTN: German Rieslings and new world Syrah/Shiraz

Went over to David Bueker's place last night for a casual dinner and a chat about strange sports played in England with a bat and ball. We opened a few interesting wines with dinner; two outstanding German Rieslings (what a shock ) and a couple of new world Syrahs (keeping in theme with this month's wine focus) that disappointed.

1997 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett (Ruwer)
A pale yellow-gold colour with aromas of flowers, white pear, apples and pine cones. In the mouth this is incredibly light and refreshing with still very youthful pear, apple and citrus fruit flavours over pine cones and minerals and a gentle creamy texture, finishing almost dry. Delicious and too easy to drink. (This is AP #2 for those keeping track.)

2002 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Le Sol Syrah (Hawkes Bay, NZ)
A huge disappointment, especially given the price and reputation of Le Sol. Shows intense black fruited flavours, oak and a little alcohol on the nose with some faint white pepper notes peeking out with air. Monolithic and dense on the palate with more black fruits, dark chocolate and oaky flavours with the alcohol (15%) making itself felt with every sip. Doesn't have any of that perfumed, white pepper and spice-laden character I love and look for in NZ Syrahs. The bottle (with one of the deepest punts I've seen) was more interesting than the wine.

1998 Magpie Estate Black Sock (Barossa Valley, Aus)
80% Shiraz, 20% Mourvedre. 13% alcohol; can't remember when I last saw that on a Barossa red! Dark red colour with an interesting aromatic profile that develops with air to show red fruits, leather, mint and faint gamey notes. The palate doesn't live up to the nose though; this is medium bodied with red fruits and leathery flavours that fade quickly on the back leaving bitter, faintly woody notes on the finish.

1995 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese (Nahe)
Beautiful wine that combines layers of peach and apple fruit with stones and mineral salts, developed smoky flavours and a gentle creamy texture. Seamless. Wow.

[David M. Bueker]

I'll try to report back on the Craggy Range later tonight or this weekend. It was rather monolithic and woody though. It certainly did not seem like cool-climate Syrah.

The Grunhaus surprised even me with its youthfulness (as did the Donnhoff to a degree).

[David M. Bueker]

Update on the Craggy Range - not quite as hot/goopy, but still completely woody and monolithic.

2002 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Le Sol Syrah (Hawkes Bay, NZ)
A huge disappointment, especially given the price and reputation of Le Sol...Monolithic and dense on the palate with more black fruits, dark chocolate and oaky flavours with the alcohol (15%) making itself felt with every sip..

I don't know this wine at all, but did the reputation lead you to believe it would be a different style?

Rahsaan - I was expecting a lot more based on my past experiences with Gimblett Gravels Syrahs (from Bilancia and Trinity Hill across a few vintages). The ones I've had from that region have been quite stunning - lighter than a lot of other new world Syrahs with really good acidity and just amazing aromatic profiles of white pepper, a ton of other spices, lavender and perfume.

"Le Sol" is the 'luxury' cuvee Syrah from Craggy Range (noted as one of the top producers in the area, who've received some very positive reviews from just about every reviewer I've read) - so I had very high expectations opening this (especially after my experience with Bilancia's own luxury cuvee, La Collina which was an absolutely stellar wine). Unfortunate... but I'm hoping Sue Courtney can throw some light on whether this may have been a bad bottle, or whether Le Sol just happens to be a much bigger/more extracted wine than some of its Hawkes Bay counterparts.

"Le Sol" is the 'luxury' cuvee Syrah from Craggy Range (noted as one of the top producers in the area, who've received some very positive reviews from just about every reviewer I've read) - so I had very high expectations opening this (especially after my experience with Bilancia's own luxury cuvee, La Collina which was an absolutely stellar wine). Unfortunate... but I'm hoping Sue Courtney can throw some light on whether this may have been a bad bottle, or whether Le Sol just happens to be a much bigger/more extracted wine than some of its Hawkes Bay counterparts.

Not really privy to drinking Le Sol very often, but I would say the latter part of your statement is true. 2002 was a hot season too, I remember.
I tasted the wine in November 2004 and noted then it was a wine 'that needed time'. It was a big wine, quite meaty, with lots going on. I didn't realise it was 15% alcohol (not noted in my review and now see that tech notes actually list the alcohol at 15.4% !!!) and therein may lie the answer.

I would concur with your comments about Bilancia and also add Trinity Hill into the mix - and in the 2002 vintage the Bilancia La Collina 2002 and Trinity Hill Homage 2002 are the much better wines.

Cheers,
Sue

Rahsaan - I was expecting a lot more based on my past experiences with Gimblett Gravels Syrahs...Le Sol just happens to be a much bigger/more extracted wine than some of its Hawkes Bay counterparts.

Makes sense. And of course I don't know the specific wines.

I just asked because reputations aren't usually just good/bad, there is often a stylistic assumption. Anyway, sounds like an interesting slice of syrah down there.