Keller meets NOMA - Riesling Extravaganza in Copenhagen

"In the Rest. NOMA cooks René Redzepi and I recommend that every german cook should take cooking-lessons from him"
W. Siebeck/german food-pope

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On Friday the estate Keller and the danish wine-shop Atomwine invited to a "Winemaker´s Dinner" at the Rest. NOMA in Copenhagen.

The Rest. NOMA is one of the Top 10 in the world and is famous for their modern "nordic cuisine". They cook exclusively with skandinavian products like for example truffle from Sweden, wild berries from Island, scallops&langoustine from Norway, or wild herbs like portulak from Danemark. You will find almost no typical luxury product of the haute cuisine.

NOMA is a bit like the scandinavian equivalent to Ferran Adriàs "El Bulli", but only almost, as René Redzepi
does not copy the grandmaster, instead he developed his own signature. He developed a "local terroir-kitchen" which you will only find in Kopenhagen and not in Paris, London, New York etc.
His dishes are puristic, high-complex, light at its feet, elegant, innovative and makes you smile at the end.

This fits perfectly with the Keller wines, as the Rieslings from the winemaker Klaus Peter Keller are also precise, elegant and sublime. 2 grandmaster have found and congenial supplemented.


Snack-fish chips

2007 Grüner Silvaner trocken
perfect entry! This silvaner is uncomplicated and swings.


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Langoustine tartar with cucumber sauce


2007 "von der Fels"
Based on the young vines of the Grand Cru parcels Abtserde, Morstein, Hubacker and Kirchspiel. Shows the mouthfilling, lush fruit of Hubacker, finesse of Kirchspiel, power of Morstein and the refinement of Abtserde. You don´t want to put down the glass.........
90-91/100


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scallops with herbs and tarragon emulsion


2007 Morstein GG
Morstein is the Power Riesling of the estate Keller. Perfect mix of fruit, power and minerality. A bit closed at this night. Great Potential!
93+/100


2007 Abtserde GG
The bishop of Worms was a big fan of the wines from vineyard Abtserde in the Middle Age. In addition this wines was selected a few weeks ago "Best Dry Riesling of the Vintage" by the german wineguide Gault Millau. No wonder, simply terrific Riesling. Shows pure noblesse and a high degree of fineness.
96/100


Jerusalem artichoke with crunchy nuts


2006 G-Max Magnum
The bouquet is yeasty and broad. On the palate a bit of botrytis. Present itself more like a Mosel riesling. It´s obvious it was a difficult vintage.
90/100


2007 G-Max Magnum
Dry Riesling in perfection. It doesn´t get better. Stunning inner density. I got goose-bumps from this Riesling.
What a magic moment!
99/100


Meat from cow


2007 Riesling "Reserve"
WORLD PREMIERE
Present the first time to the public. Will be released in 2012 and a name will be selected in the coming years.
Mamma mia, what a deep and dense fruit. No doubt, very, very old vines selected for this wine. Fine refinement already at this early stage. Big, big, big potential!


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8h braised meat


2005 Spätburgunder Bürgel Felix GG
Distinctive minerality in the bouquet. Shy on the palate with flavors wood berries and lumber. Silky tannins and perfectly integrated wood. Lovely fine interwoven everything. Need some time.
93+/100


2005 Spätburgunder FR
Sexy perfume. Quite hedonistic Spätburgunder with a lush fruit and velvet texture. YUM, YUM
91/100


1997 Riesling Spätlese “Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck”, Rheingau Magnum
A project of Klaus Peter Keller during his time at the university in Geisenheim. Unbelievable fresh, young and great play. Dances like a primaballerina on the palate. At this stage it is already clear this young guy will reach the Riesling Olympus some day.


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Walnut ice cream with berry powder and milk snow


2002 Hubacker Auslese*** GK Magnum
WOW, out of this world. Highly concentrated fruit, subtle acidity, perfect balance and what a depth. BRAVO 98/100

This looks lovely

Martin, I can just congratulate you for having been able to be there and have that experience. Clearly quite extraordinary!
Cheers,
Anders

Yes Anders, NOMA is a very special place! All the years I wanted to visit this restaurant and now all my high expectations were fullfiled.

Here are the food pictures with danish names, maybe this helps a little bit for you to understand the food:

http://www.snakvin.com/BB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3444

Skaal,
Martin

Here are the food pictures with danish names, maybe this helps a little bit for you to understand the food:

http://www.snakvin.com/BB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3444

Skaal,
Martin

Thanks, Martin. Creative cooking indeed - and presentations!
Skål
A

Thanks for the report, Martin. It sure must have been an extraodrinary experience.

You did not rate the Reserve Riesling. How did it fare next to G-Max? My geuss is that must have struggled there... Any guess on the vineyard?

Peter

Peter,

yes, it was a memorable event, as the food&wine was a perfect match. You have to know that the food was selected 1 week ago at a pre-tasting with the sommelier. Also the wines performed a touch better than at the estate or in Berlin. Klaus Peter made the joke that his wines will be presented only in Kopenhagen in the future. He created the term "Flug-Keller".

This new Riesling was not completely dry! And was very, very youthfull, so it is difficult give a score. I didn´t want it to compare with G-Max, as they have a different stilistic. I would guess it is a Hubacker. My danish friends thought it is a Kirchspiel. But the fruit was such lush,opulent, exotic.........reminds me on Hubacker. Certainly David Rayer will laugh when he is reading my notes...........

Alles Gute,
Martin