Biodynamic Wines at the French Embassy

Attended the “Return to Terroir” event at the French embassy on Tuesday, showcasing a number of biodynamic wine producers. Nicolas Joly kicked off the event with a lecture for a limited crowd first, which I might have found more entertaining had I not been ridiculously tired (despite his enthusiasm for the subject of biodynamie, the auditorium lights were somewhat low and I kept feeling myself drifting and the only thing that kept waking me up was a fear that I might snore out loud).

Anyway, here is a list of the producers represented. I’m not providing notes on each wine tasted simply because I didn’t take any and I obviously don’t remember them all; I have, however, bolded the producers that I remembered for one reason or another and provided short, superficial notes there:

Domaine Marcel Deiss (Alsace)
Domaine Jean Schaetzel (Alsace)
Domaine Marc Tempe (Alsace)
Domaine Ostertag (Alsace)
Domaine Josmeyer (Alsace)
Domaine Valentin (Alsace)
Domaine Kreydenweiss (Alsace)
Domaine Zind Humbrecht (Alsace) – Very disappointed that their entire supply was gone before the lecture even let out. I like this producer and was looking forward to tasting more of his wines, but alas there was not a drop to be found.
Domaine Pierre Morey (Burgundy)
Domaine Leflaive (Burgundy)
Chateau Fonroque (Bordeaux)
Chateau Moulin du Cadet (Bordeaux)
Chateau Falfas (Bordeaux)
Chateau le Puy (Bordeaux)
Chateaux la Graviere (Bordeaux)
Domaine Cazes (Languedoc-Roussillon) I really liked their ’76 Rivesaltes Blanc Aime, an ethereal dessert wine that seems dangerously easy to drink.
Domaine Beauthorey (Languedoc)
Chateau Tour Grise (Loire) Sampled two ‘07 Saumur Blancs, same year, composition, and property but from different land parcels with different soil types. The difference between the two was distinct.
Nicolas Joly Vignobles Coulee de Serrat (Loire)
Chateau Romanin (Provence)
Domaine Hauvette (Provence)
Chateau Sainte Anne (Provence)
Clos Joncuas (Rhone)
Domaine Pierre Andre (Rhone)
Domaine Montirius (Rhone)
Maison Chapoutier (Rhone) Another producer that I knew I liked but whose table I never did find.
Domaine du Coulet (Rhone)
Domaine de Villeneuve (Rhone)
Champagne Fleury (Champagne)
Domaine Andre et Mirelle Tissot (Jura) I had tasted their cremant at Cork in DC and enjoyed it again here, along with their other wines. Nice stuff, this was only the second Arbois Pupillin that I’ve tried, the other being Overnoy.
Nikolaihof Wachau (Austria)
Meinklang (Austria)
Compania de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez (Spain – Ribera & Rioja)
Mas Estela (Spain – Cataluna)
Cosimo Maria Massini (Tuscany)
Campinuovi (Tuscany)
Tenuta di Valgiano (Italy)
San Polino (Montalcino)
Vinedos Santa Emiliana (Chile)
Castagna Vineyard (Australia)
Ngeringa Vineyard (Australia – Adelaide)
Weingut Wittman (Rheinhessen) I’m not a big reisling drinker but I really liked this producer.
Frogs Leap (Napa) First time I’ve ever experienced the “cat pee” aroma in a Sauvignon Blanc. Not unpleasant.
Bonterra (Mendocino)
Tres Sabores (California, various) The Sauvignon Blanc from this producer had subtle floral notes instead of the more aggressive grass or grapefruit I’m used to. I liked it. Also found their Zin to be surprisingly civilized, despite the 14.7% alcohol content. Told the owner that I wouldn’t have guessed it that high based on taste. She said she keeps trying to get it down even lower, but has found it difficult.
The Milton Vineyard (Gisborne, NZ)
Movia (Slovenia)

I wish I could say that I’ve had some revelation now about the purity and character of biodynamic wine versus…well, all other wine. Maybe it was the format – I find that I’m easily distracted and overloaded in the walk around tastings where you’re sampling numerous wines. Maybe it would have been helpful to do side-by-side tastings from similar non-biodynamic vineyards. At any rate, no epiphanies this time. Except that you can’t park on the street by the embassy between 4pm-6:30pm without getting a $100 ticket. Turned out to be quite an expensive event for me.

I wish I could say that I’ve had some revelation now about the purity and character of biodynamic wine versus…well, all other wine. Maybe it was the format...

Or perhaps the selection of winemakers

There are some good names in there, but also some mediocre ones. Like everything, not all biodynamic wine is great or pure or character-filled.

I wish I could say that I’ve had some revelation now about the purity and character of biodynamic wine versus…well, all other wine. Maybe it was the format – I find that I’m easily distracted and overloaded in the walk around tastings where you’re sampling numerous wines. Maybe it would have been helpful to do side-by-side tastings from similar non-biodynamic vineyards. At any rate, no epiphanies this time.

My opinion is that there is no way to taste the biodynamic difference unless you are the one who is working the vineyard and making the wine and you transition only part of you holdings at a time. I see no other way to attempt to keep all of the other variables the same so that one can identify the impact of the biodynamic farming. Therefore, I feel there is not much chance that most of us will ever really be able to assess for ourselves if biodynamic practices make a difference.

I wish I could say that I’ve had some revelation now about the purity and character of biodynamic wine versus…well, all other wine. Maybe it was the format...

Or perhaps the selection of winemakers

There are some good names in there, but also some mediocre ones. Like everything, not all biodynamic wine is great or pure or character-filled.

As you say, biodynamie does not ensure quality in the finished wine.

And that list is somewhat of a mixed bag, yes. As with any wine, caveat.

Still and all, I have to say, I'd be pleased and happy to drink wines from that list, and it does contain a handful of most favorite producers. I consider it quite a good testimonial to what bd can generate.