WTN: Isabella, Crimea, Vitis x labrusca

A friend of mine, who at the time lived in Vienna, and I once had a discussion about the grape Isabella that apparently is banned in the EU. In spite of this ban, it is still grown in Austria where it is used for the wine called Uhudler and in Italy to make Fragolino. It was introduced in Europe after Phylloxera infested vineyards in the latter half of the 19th century. It is apparently a cross derived from Vitis labrusca, but I haven't been able to find out exactly how. Then some months ago, his job took him to Crimea where he found that also there they are making wine from this grape. Remembering our discussion, he bought me a bottle that he gave me as a very nice and surprising present. Tonight it was opened and, hardly surprising, it did not taste quite like anything else I have tasted before.

The colour is very light, almost rosé, with an orange tinge.
The smell is very fruity and aromatic. It reminds me very much of grapes form Vitis labrusca vines that I have tasted a few times. I can't say i find much of the strawberries (fragole) that the smell should contain en masse. Perhaps it is a bit aged, but what I really find is a glass full of pomegranate. There is also a hint of beet roots.
The taste is distinctly sweet, again reminding very much of pomegranate juice. A nice acidity and just a touch of tannins.. It does not seem to have much alcohol, which enhances the juicy feeling. The only information I can find on the label that might relate any information regarding the alcohol level seems to indicate that it is between 9 and 12%, but I will try to get the whole label translated. BTW, the label itself is rather worth a story of it self. I'll post a picture of it in a while.

We tried to have this wine to pizza tonight, but it was really far from pleasant, but I suppose it could be quite nice if had well chilled on an Italian piazza, sitting in the shade during a warm sunny day. I hope I will be able to give it another chance in such a situation one day.

Any insight comments from Paul B maybe?

Cheers, Anders

If you've ever wondered what Isabella looks like, here she is:

Isabella.jpg

And a closeup of the beauty:

Isabella, closeup.jpg

Cheers, Anders

Anders-
Never had that wine and probably never will, but I'd like to add:
Redheads Rule

Anders,

Thank you for this most unusual and interesting note.

I am very curious what the wine was like, and especially curious what the winemaking process was in the Crimea. I wonder if they're making it like an Austrian Uhudler, or maybe in some other syle.

I would have thought that Isabella would produce a very inky wine, since the grape is a riparia/labrusca hybrid, and riparia gives great colour. Then again, maybe it's the Clinton variety that produces inky, dark wines.

In any case, a really rare find for sure, and a great pleasure to read about it and to see the label. Wish I could be of more help though.

There's a wonderful wine bar/store in Venice called Lino's (in Dorsoduro, near the Zattere) and Lino has house fragolinos, both red and white, served in unmarked bottles. I didn't care much for the red but the white was decidedly delicious, like drinking a bowl of fresh muscat grapes. And he did say something about it being against the law, so it is probably Isabella. Highly recommended for anyone going to Venice.

From THE SUPER GIGANTIC Y2K WINEGRAPE GLOSSARY:

ISABELLA:
Moderately cold-resistant American labruscana grape grown on limited acreages in New York state for use as a tablegrape and in varietal and sparkling wine blends. A selected "bud sport" cultivar is currently grown in California under the name Pierce (has synonym name Royal Isabella). Still grown in cooler regions of Italy and Australia, where it is named Fragola. A selection with the name Albany Surprise is now grown in New Zealand. Also found in eastern Europe under a variety of alias names, (such as Seksarda in Croatia, former province of Yugoslavia and as Izabella in Hungary and Georgia CIS). This historically significant variety has over fifty synonym names (see Geilweilerhof database in the Foreword section above) as a result of its post-phylloxera popularity in the late 19th century. Thought to be derived from a native Vitis Labrusca grape of N. America and an unknown european vinifera probably created by random pollination as a result of the 18th century attempts to establish European vines in the U.S. Reputedly discovered in Dorchester, N. Carolina around 1816 it was promoted by William R. Prince, an influential nursery owner established in Flushing, N.Y, and named after a famous "southern belle", the wife of Col. George Gibbs. Currently being selectively removed and replaced by varieties that lack the "grapey/foxy" taste and flavor of this grape although it still has its admirers. Modern winemaking techniques have succeeded in eradicating the agent responsible, resulting in a popular, strawberry/boysenbery-like flavored wine where those techniques are practiced. It is still grown in quantity in Brazil and other fungus prone regions of South America. An example of random hybridization involving only N. American vine species that resulted in a successful wine is the Norton grape.

Thanks Howie. I thought it was a riparia x labrusca hybrid, not vinifera. That might explain the light pigmentation of the wine.

Wish I could find some Clinton grapes or wine someplace though.

About 3 years ago, I had the 1999 Garling Nostalgie Isabella, from Moldova. It was quite sweet on the palate, and I had a hard time matching it with food. Worth a try but not a wine I'd seek out again.

Anders,
Here's something I posted last year on Isabella in Austria http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15029&p=126077&hilit=isabella#p126077 and a reply by Thomas
http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/village/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15029&p=126079&hilit=isabella#p126079

Dan