Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu sec 2004 – Domaine Huet had all the usual qualities of focus, bright acidity, minerality and elegance but perhaps less “gras” and honeyed touches than in less difficult year; very good but less charming and complete than Chidaine’s 04 Montlouis Bournais, which I noted recently; 15.5/20+++.
I have read claims that Saumur “Brézé” – Clos Rougeard is one of France’s greatest white wines. This 1999, albeit very good, was not on than level but this may be a function of a less than stellar vintage. Colour was a brilliant yellow and the aromas were discreet but quite fresh and elegant with notes of exotic fruit, touches of apple and quince and the palate was long and elegant with good freshness and “gras” and quite lively acidity with its wood (which disconcerts when young) now fully integrated and only showing itself as a polished patina towards the finish; 16/20++.
Ribera de Duero Tinto Pesquera Crianza 1995 – Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez was full-bodied, smooth and velvety with good shape on the palate, ripe structure and length showing round ripe fruit and attractively rich aromas with a lot of sweet cherry and kirsch; the American oak ageing is now fully integrated. I have heard that the Pesquera brand is losing its lustre but this was very attractive if not the most subtle and complex of wines; 16/20+.
Cahors 2007 – Château Croze de Pys, Jean Roche (€4,80), made from Malbec 75%, Merlot 20% and Tannat 5%, represents remarkable QPR; at last year’s Cahors jamboree, I picked out the 2005 for its pure fruit and charm and the 2006 earned a Guide Hachette “Coup de Coeur” for similar qualities. This 2007 was somewhat sterner, more savoury, virile and typically Cahors than the 2005 with dark fruit, tar, liquorice and spice notes and marked tannins; I like this but it is not likely to be a crowd pleaser; maybe it will more resemble the 2005 after another year of ageing; 15/20.