With Christian, Dani and Remo.
Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 1988
Perfectly stored half bottle from my collection (Christian would not stop raving about how pristine this bottle was, how fresh the wine given the small bottle size, and the cork sure looked like new). Garnet-ruby-black, light gloss, looked perfect, youthful! Firm fruit, the complex tell-tale baked brick clay minerality, very good body and length, pretty tannin, soft but mouthwatering acids. Perhaps the best bottle I have ever had of this wine, what a beauty! But: this probably means it is now on its apogee, at least from this format. Rating: 95-/94(-?)
Château L’Eglise-Clinet Pomerol 1995
Thanks to Christian. Undrinkably corked. Rating: N/R
Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Howell Mountain 2004
Thanks to Remo. Opaque purple-black, ruby-red at the rim. Spicy oak, integrated iodine top note for young Dunn HM. Not the power, intensity, sheer urgency, and tannic backbone of the “classic” Dunns, nor even the best of the semi-modern ones (e.g. the 2001). Crisp and quite lively fruit, good subtlety. Still a convincingly minerally wine, but the awesome metal notes (which I love, iodine included), are showing less than ever. At least a fraction less depth, apart from the power and intensity, but long and per se attractive. While this is drinking better now than other recent vintages did at such an early stage, my guess is that its upwards potential, while still there, is limited – definitely a new and different style: more mainstream, “easier to appreciate” or interpret. Seeing Remo was more pleased with it than any of the Dunns he had so far tasted with us (and that includes top vintages like the 1992), I guess one might say there is some justification for a change of style. In contrast to some Bordeaux Châteaux, that turnaround may not be quite so severe, even so, I am as yet undecided whether Dunn is going to lose at least one customer. Let us see what future vintages are going to be like. Rating: 93+/94?
Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon 1994
Contribution of mine. Full, fairly deep ruby-black. Cheesy dried sage and lavender, fairly closed fruit at first, very minerally. Haut Brion-like earthiness, Christian said. Soon fruitier, with a touch of sweat to the Provençal herbs. Complex, very finesseful, and so well-balanced, most impressive for the vintage. Balanced, and very, very long on the finish. Qualitatively more impressive than the Chave in this vintage – whether I like it better, I am not sure, but I am getting more used to the style (must admit that I have mostly had young Chapoutier wines for many years, and have really only started appreciating them more since I could taste a few reasonably mature ones). Drink or hold. Rating: 94+?
Romano Dal Forno Recioto della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta 1988
Thanks to Dani. Undrinkably corked. Rating: N/R
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti