by Oswaldo Costa » Thu Mar 05, 2009 5:54 pm
My three notes, at the respective vineyards, roughly translated:
2006 Dom Cândido Marselan Vale dos Vinhedos 13.0%
No oak. Simple cherry aroma, tastes more acid than sweet. A wine without complexity, without conceivable interest. Dom Candido himself, one of the three Valduga brothers, came over to chat with us and told us how he was the first to plant Marselan in Brazil (2006 was his third vintage). This varietal, a cross between cabernet sauvignon and grenache, was developed in the south of France (near Marseilles, hence the name) over thirty years of reserach. According to Dom Cândido, in 1999 an importer offered him vines at R$2 each (less than a Dollar), but only if he bought 5,000. Since the first vintage was well received, other local wineries began to make wine with this varietal.
2007 Larentis Marselan Reserva Especial Vale dos Vinhedos 13.0%
Spends between 3 and 4 months in oak. More interesting aroma of leather and sous bois. Of all the wines tasted at this winery, this was the only one to exhibit balance between acidity and sweetness. The most interesting wine in their lineup.
2005 Bettú Marselan Ipê 14.1%
Made with outside grapes supplied by a grower in Ipê, near Vacaria. Almost no SO2 used. Aromas of cherry compote and olives. Initially a little too sweet, almost a syrup, with a short finish. Gains considerably with air, acquiring new aromas, like anis and tar. Fascinating evolution in the glass over the course of a few hours. Of the few Marselans I've tried, certainly my favorite.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.