WTN: 2005 Vatan Chateau du Hureau "Tuffe"

I continue my voyage along the Loire Valley-Saumur-Champigny this time.
This wine proves the adage "Give it air" for a young wine!

Dark ruby in color, somewhat translucent. At first, the nose is rather reticent, not showing much. The palate at first is quite shy, also, with good red currant fruit and almost a meaty edge-and the herbal character of Cab Franc really shows through.

With air (a hour or so), the nose appears-definitely a mix of berry, cassis, and earth. The palate deepens and becomes much richer as well, with deeper cassis and currant fruit, some raspberry notes, the slight bitterness of herbs, and a very smooth, round mouth feel. Not very much green pepper here-unlike the Chinon from last night. Not particularly tannic, and the wine does not appear to be structured for long aging, but still a nice richness of flavors. Not quite Breton (still my favorite Loire winery), but this wine was richer and more integrated than the Friday, Monday and Tuesday competitors. 90 points.

In my experience, Saumur-Champigny tends to be fuller and more tannic than Chinon or Bourgueil, with certain exceptions; Alliet springs to mind. Philippe Vatan http://www.domaine-hureau.fr/uk/wines.htm is a good producer, who uses no wood at all, and who manages to achieve good body, roundness and purity of fruit. I think that Tuffe which I cannot recall having drunk is his basic red cuvée which probably accounts for low tannins; his top cuvée, Lisagathe, is quite robust.

Thanks, Tim. I will look for the other cuvee.

My biggest irritation is I did not write down where I found this wine! I remember it being rather inexpensive, so....I hope/think it's Paul Marcuse in Oakland so I can buy another bottle!

I have to admit to a love of the lightness and balance of French Cab Franc. I would probably rather drink these wines over many (not all...I am no purist) California Cabs-which are often three times the price!

Philippe Vatan http://www.domaine-hureau.fr/uk/wines.htm is a good producer, who uses no wood at all...

Even on Lisagathe?

Philippe Vatan http://www.domaine-hureau.fr/uk/wines.htm is a good producer, who uses no wood at all...

Even on Lisagathe?

That's what he told me.