From a fun dinner Thursday night at Troquet in Boston with some old friends, new faces and a great lineup of older Lopez de Heredia wines that was really fun to sit down with over a few hours.
N.V. Jose Dhondt Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut
Pale yellow-green colour with a flavour profile of pear, flowers, cream, toast and a little yeastiness. Develops with air as flavours of gingerbread and minerals emerge on the nose and palate. Beautifully balanced with good acidity and a long clean finish.
1981 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia (Blanco)
Bright golden colour with a fantastic nose that starts out showing hazelnut, toasted almonds, orange marmalade, brown sugar and some faintly sherried notes. The palate isn't as sweet or nutty as the nose leads one to imagine with a rich velvety texture, buttery melon and quince flavours over a salty mineral character and finishing with a streak of coconut flavours on the back end. Complex and fascinating to sit with over time, developing first some petrol like elements and later mustard seed notes after a couple of hours.
1961 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia
Surprisingly dark and youthful in colour for a 48 year old wine. Stunning nose showing roses, cherries, cranberries, leather, herbs and forestal underbrush notes. On the palate it's not quite as expressive, showing red fruits over some earthy and minty notes but a little light in intensity. Good acidity leads to a slightly thin finish.
1976 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia
Clear dark red colour with a stunning nose showing leather, cinnamon, cherry, earth and floral elements over faintly caramelized notes. Has a silky, light mouthfeel with more cherry, cranberry, leather and mushroom flavours on the palate, good acidity and grainy tannins on the back end. Picks up weight and length with air, giving the impression that there's still plenty of time ahead here.
1978 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia
My favourite wine of the night; an unbelievably complex nose raises expectations here with aromas ranging from red fruits and spices to orange peel, earth and roses. Absolutely beautiful and intoxicating to smell, and the palate lives up to the expectations raised by the nose with a mix of cherries and leathery flavours over leafy, herbal elements and balsamic notes. Silky in texture and almost weightless in the mouth, finishing with good length. Outstanding.
1987 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia
Surprisingly pale red colour (lighter than the '78). Wonderful elegant nose with red fruits, herbs, forestal underbrush and hints of orange peel; just a delight to swirl and sniff. The palate though doesn't quite live up to the nose; this feels simpler than the other Heredias in the mouth with forward red fruits and herbal notes, good acidity and grainy tannins on the back end. Elegant and delicious - but a notch or two below the '78 in terms of complexity and depth right now.
For dessert
1999 Wittmann Westhofener Morstein Riesling Auslese
Light yellow colour with an incredible nose that soars from the glass, showing honey, slate, peach and other orchard fruits and hints of rose petals. Rich and sweet in the mouth with peach, pineapple and red fruited flavours layered with minerals and honey, yet surprisingly light on its feet with bright acidity and a long finish.