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Some Swiss Wines at the Embassy

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Kyrstyn Kralovec

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Some Swiss Wines at the Embassy

by Kyrstyn Kralovec » Sat Mar 07, 2009 10:50 am

I poured wine on Thursday evening at a Giramondo event at the ambassador’s residence at the Swiss Embassy. This was a walk-around event, with three stations – white, red and dessert – and three tables of buffet style munchies to include bunderfleish and polenta, assorted cheeses, mini-quiches, potato and onion latkes, raclette served with potatoes, gherkins and cocktail onions, and walnut/raisin tarts. The wines served are below:

2005 Henri Badoux les Murailles (AOC Aigle, Vaud Region): 100% Chasselas. The presenter’s notes mention floral/fruity/mineral overtones, however I didn’t get a chance to try this. When Laurent was giving us the rundown before the event, he mentioned that this one had actually seemed a little disappointing to him, but he thought that may be because he tasted it out of order, after the two more full-bodied whites below. At any rate, none of the guests remarked one way or another on this one, so my guess is that it was neither here nor there and generally forgettable.

2007 Chateau d’Auverner (AOC Auverner, Neuchatel region): 100% Pinot Gris, or Malvoisie as it’s called in Switzerland. I didn’t get a chance to taste this one, although the presenter’s notes mention almonds and honey. I was pouring at the dessert table, so by the time people got around to my section they had already tasted all the other wines and this one got mentioned as a favorite by just about everyone.

2005 Chateau Lichten (AOC Valais): 100% Petite Arvine, which is a native Swiss variety. This had a nice, spicy nose which subtly followed through to the palate to be accompanied by apricots and a respectable minerality. Very nice, this got a lot of mention from the guests also.

2005 Rene Favre & Fils Pinot Noir (AOC Chamoson, Valais region): This was the most bizarre Pinot Noir I’ve ever tasted. The presenter’s notes are light fruit and earthy, unfiltered, some tart cherry making it more reminiscent of a sangiovese. I got just about none of those impressions, except maybe the earthy part. In fact, the nose was like ripping a chunk of dead grass out of slightly damp earth, and the palate was just kind of sour. Not a favorite of anyone there.

2001 Delea Merlot del Mago (DOC Ticino): 100% Merlot, this was actually rather nice with some spice, mature berries, mushrooms and candied prune notes. Noticed that all the other wines were covered under AOCs, but I guess the close proximity to Italy makes this one a DOC instead? Don’t know anything about the appellation system in Switzerland, but I thought this was kind of interesting.

2004 Adrian Matheir la Valaisanne (AOC Valais): 100% Malvoise. I had volunteered for the dessert wine table because for some unknown reason I had preconceived notions that the Swiss might do well with these, and I’m glad I did. This particular wine was more off-dry than sweet, and reminded me of a Moscato d’Asti without any frizzante qualities. Soft honey, chamomile and vanilla notes combine nicely in this wine, which is light enough to be enjoyed on its own as a patio sipper in the warmer months, or as an accompaniment to spicy Asian food or duck.

2005 Arvine Mi-Fletrie les Claives Andre Roduit & Fils (AOC Valais): 100% Arvine, the spiciness of this grape showed itself again on the nose with this dessert version, which is followed by lush apricots cradled by a nice minerality. This was beautifully balanced, and a favorite of many at the event, including me. All the volunteers got to choose a bottle to take with them from the leftovers, and I was happy to be able to snag this one before anyone else did.

This was a fun event to work…the ambassador was in attendance and mingling w/ the group, we volunteers got goofy looking straw hats with black bands, aprons and taste du vins to enhance the black slacks and white shirts we had been requested to wear, and the guests in attendance really seemed to enjoy themselves. I was particularly pleased to see so many the of guests who were initially skeptical of the dessert wines end up quite enjoying them and trying to find out where they might buy them (which, unfortunately, is no where near where I live...these all came from the ambassador's private collection).
I swear, by my life and my love of it, that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine. ~John Galt
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: Some Swiss Wines at the Embassy

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Mar 07, 2009 1:20 pm

My mother is from Basel. She has always talked to me about Swiss wines very proudly but never mentions the cost!! Ticino is close to the Italian border.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ticino_(wine_region)
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Tim York

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Re: Some Swiss Wines at the Embassy

by Tim York » Sat Mar 07, 2009 1:34 pm

Petite Arvine makes excellent white wines in Valais which would be sought after internationally, I think, if the Swiss did not lap them all up themselves. I believe that there are also good ones in nearby Val d'Aosta. Amigne is another interesting native white grape.

It is a pity that they didn't show reds from native grapes Cornalin and Humagne, which, for me, are much more interesting than the local manifestations of Pinot Noir and Syrah, excellent though some of the latter can be.
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Dan Donahue

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Re: Some Swiss Wines at the Embassy

by Dan Donahue » Sat Mar 07, 2009 2:36 pm

I generally go for Chasselas when I can find it; I've buried some in the cellar to see how they age. The Favres normally include a significant percentage of Gamay with the PN. Can't say that I liked them. I suspect the Swiss keep the best of their limited production for themselves.
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