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WTN: Hessen, Antinori, Brusset, la Lagune, Eileen Hardy

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Bill Spohn

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WTN: Hessen, Antinori, Brusset, la Lagune, Eileen Hardy

by Bill Spohn » Sat Mar 07, 2009 12:37 pm

Monthly blind tasting lunch – this month blind as to whose wine it was while we muttered about the wine, then the disclosure of who brought it and some pointed questions aimed at the purveyor to attempt to identify it.

1999 Prinz von Hessen Johannisberger Klaus Auslese – for some reason the yellowing wine didn’t immediately click as German Riesling with some of us, and we were thinking about Loire before someone (Jenise?) mentioned Riesling at which point it was so obvious that there were the typical indicators in the nose that we (I) mentally kicked ourselves. Fair bit of botrytis in the nose (which dos tend to mask other aromas, he said, fighting a rear guard action) and a well balanced wine, with sufficient acidity.

2005 Dom. d’Antugnac Cote Pierre Lys Pinot Noir – I got this (eventually, as at first all the nose presented was flat Coco Cola nd ashes) French Pinot but then bogged down completely when it was not either Burgundy or Loire. It actually comes from much further south. Compact and tight.

2004 Castel del Remei Gotim Bru – blend of Tempranillo, Cab, merlot and Garnacha, this one had decent fruit, a ripe fruit driven nose, and a bit if blackberry. Drink now.

1990 Antinori Peppoli – the result of a cellar digging expedition and offered with a back up in case it was over the hill. In fact it wasn’t half bad – the appearance gave away the age, the edges were clear and the centre brick, the nose took awhile to open up, but eventually clicked in and it had (predictably) lots of acidity. While it would have been better at least 5 years ago, it was a slowly fading elegant wine today.

1998 Brusset Les Hautes de Montmirail – huge wine, dark with a slightly bretty nose sweet nose, sweet entry and nice stuffing. Seemed younger!

2000 Dom. de la Solitude CNduP – older appearance, (I thought maybe a mid 90s) with a mature, pleasant nose that reminded me more of claret than of Rhone as there was neither tar nor pepper present, the only clue being the slight ripeness. Pleasant and at peak. We thus followed a wine that seemed to b more youthful than expected with one that showed more development than I’d have expected.

1982 Ch. La Lagune – I’d kept trying the prevous wines thinking ‘Well, this could be mine, …except….” but instantly locked in once I tasted this one and knew it for my own. lovely mature claret nose with curranty overtones, balanced and smooth with good fruit, nicely sweet and medum long finish. Lovely Bordeaux at peak.

1997 Eileen Hardy Shiraz – the mint gave it away as to origin, and the wine was not overdone in the mouth, having shed the puppy fat of sweetness and mellowed into a very nice example of the type of Shiraz that I much prefer.

1994 Ch. Dauzan la Vergne – this is a liquoreux made very much in the style of Monbazillac and Sausignac, in the Dordogne, east of Bordeaux. I recently visited the area and it is a great area for bargains for wine lovers, using the same grapes, but thankfully not the same price scale as the Bordelais do. I know the Haut Montravel, but not this wine, which is not mentioned in the only references on the area. Not surprising as it may be a single farmstead producing small amounts of wine. In any case, I liked the wine a lot. Darker amber than the Riesling had been, not too sweet, and without any indication that it had received any fresh oak as some in the region will do. It had a candied orange impression but finished almost dry. What a nice way to end with the second wine discovery by the same person, both having stumped us!
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Re: WTN: Hessen, Antinori, Brusset, la Lagune, Eileen Hardy

by Jenise » Sat Mar 07, 2009 3:12 pm

[quote="Bill Spohn"]
1999 Prinz von Hessen Johannisberger Klaus Auslese – for some reason the yellowing wine didn’t immediately click as German Riesling with some of us, and we were thinking about Loire before someone (Jenise?) mentioned Riesling at which point it was so obvious that there were the typical indicators in the nose that we (I) mentally kicked ourselves.

Bill, I was the one who suggested Loire Chenin initially, and Coop's the one who pegged it as riesling. Lovely wine, drinks well now.

2005 Dom. d’Antugnac Cote Pierre Lys Pinot Noir – This didn't show as well as I hoped, though it was nonetheless fun stumping you guys. I didn't write much about it, mostly because there wasn't a lot to say: ashy and a bit plain Jane, more like cool climate pinot with big acid. A decent food wine but lacks complexity. So just now I looked up Garagiste's sales pitch on it, and am surprised to read that this came from relatively mature vines: If you wonder how this can be consider Limoux, a town/region of the Languedoc that is not clowning around (regardless of its famous festival). It has become a hotbed of Pinot Noir production due to its uncanny soil composition in the hills around the town and ability to retain cool, even cold subsoil temperatures that result in conditions similar to much cooler regions of France - more on par with Atlantic coastal regions. Through a series of meteorological events, the Mediterranean and Aude River act as giant air conditioners with mistral winds blowing the cooling effects of the water well inland. In addition to differences in soil composition, what really separates this region from other Pinot Noir pretenders is the sun. The sun of the south cannot be duplicated further north and the overall solar radiation produces fruit and phenolics that are more intense than traditional Pinot Noir regions - all while the roots and vines themselves stay cool. When you add the two together - intense solar radiation and the cooling influence of soil and wind you get a climate that is hot but the fruit is oh so cool. The Sonoma Coast of France?

From some of the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Limoux (35+ years), vinified in its natural splendor with masses of velvet and sap that never becomes overdone - this is a wine that has more in common with the Cote de Nuits than the Languedoc. The wine is vinified in a combination of old and new oak (only 10-20% new) and they decided to go for the gusto with the few new barrels - Francois Freres and Seguin Moreau (usually reserved for far more expensive wines).


2004 Castel del Remei Gotim Bru – bretty nose with greanche elements, tar, and a bit hot. Did not love it.

1990 Antinori Peppoli – older, brown, poopy. I was more impressed when I learned what it was than I had been before the reveal.

1998 Brusset Les Hautes de Montmirail – a bit of initial brett blows off fairly quickly, Rhonish and sweet with blood and old saddle notes. More like a mourvedre to me than grenache/syrah.

2000 Dom. de la Solitude CNduP – can't improve on your description.

1982 Ch. La Lagune – Can't really improve on this description either. Very very nice wine.

1997 Eileen Hardy Shiraz – There's a lot to be said for a wine that after being confused by all those others is straightforwardly exactly what it's supposed to be and one of the best examples at that. Such was this wine, serious quality but one we didn't hve to work for. Pure pleasure.

1994 Ch. Dauzan la Vergne Haut Montravel – Liquoreux? Unfamiliar term, do you mean you think it's fortified? I didn't find that at all. Otherwise, I completely agree with your description and good impression, and would add informationally that it's made from equal parts sauvignon blanc and semillon. (Btw, note that I corrected your spelling of the name.) I have eight more bottles, and will have a devil of a time keeping my hands off them.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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