We started with a blind fizz that was only partly Austrian: R&R Rosè Brut NV ( label - 12% abv; 8g/l acidity; 2g/l sugar; 36 months ageing) which was a collaboration between Christian Reiterer from West-Steiermark and Sepp Reiterer from Südtirol in Italy. It is a blend of roughly a third each of Blauer Wildbacher and Pinots Noir and Blanc.
A deep pink, lovely bright, mineral and straberry aromas. Really crisp, acidic but with a charming fruitiness, too, so I wasn't the only one who enjoyed it tremendously.
Then we started on the reds. First up was one I didn't enjoy at all, a Juris St. Laurent Reserve 2002 ( label - from Stiegelmar, Gols, Neusiedlersee). It was oaky. I couldn't really smell anything else. There was some crisp acidity and red berries but the coco powder oak was overwhelming.
The Ernst Triebaumer St. Laurent 2004 ( label - Rust, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland] was quite lovely! Sweet and primary, but no new oak that I could see so the bright but ripe cherry fruit could fully express itself. Deep, well structured, refreshing wine but primary. Very nice!
Weninger St. Laurent Reserve 2004 ( label - Horitschon, Mittelburgenland) wasn't to my taste: spicy oak and toffee. The palate was better with its bright, tart red berry flavours, but the oak was still dominant.
Weninger Blaufränkisch Ried Hochäcker Tinavera 1997 ( label - Horitschon, Mittelburgenland) was fantastic. It seemed fully mature and, as it was served blind, my notes simply read: "pure Pinosity". Lovely, sweet fruit, nice acidity and brightness, sexy Pinosity. Drinking beautifully now.
Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Haidegrund St. Laurent 2004 ( label - Kamptal) must count as one of the most offensively oaky wines I have ever had the misfortune to sniff. I love Gobelsburg's whites, but this was nasty: the combination of raw wood and hot chocolate powder coupled with tart red berries made me wretch.
Stadlmann St. Laurent 2005 ( label - Traiskirchen, Thermenregion) was a nice, plump, ripe wine with dark cherry scents. 8g/l RS, ripe fruit, but bright - comparisons were made with Grenache since this was so "Southern" in feel. A nice wine!
Paul Achs St. Laurent 2006 ( label - Gols, Neusiedlersee) was quite nice with some brambly and berry scents - but also a lactic, yoghurt aroma. Sweet and bright but weirdly lactic. I still kind of liked it.
Juris Pinot Noir Reserve 2001 ( label - Stiegelmar, Gols, Neusiedlersee) was awesome! This was served blind, and my first reaction was 1993 Burgundy: I had a flashback to the brilliant bottle of Jadot Ursules '93. It is bright, tight, acidic yet full of Pinosity. Needs time, but I loved it now as well.
Weninger St. Laurent Reserve 2006 (Hortischon, Mittelburgenland) was better IMO than the 2002 that we started with. Though still a bit oaky, the oak wasn't at all as offensive - maybe because the fruit was riper? But it still wasn't a style I really enjoyed with its oak mixed up with a cranberry tartness; but I did like the bright berry aromas.
Umathum St. Laurent 2007 ( label - Frauenkirchen, Neusiedlersee) was tight. I think this might turn out well in a few years. It had impeccable balance and raciness, but the aromas were tight.
Rosi Schuster St. Laurent 2007 (St. Margarethen, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland) was also closed but showed ripe fruit, cherry, lovely brightness and bright acidity. Very nice, but closed.
I really enjoyed the wines that didn't show oak - I am not sure the nature of the grape handles oak aromas at all well. They were bright and high in acid, great food wines and very moreish. It is a shame that some are spoiling such wonderful little treasures with a lumberjack philosophy.
