The place for all things wine, focused on serious wine discussions.

WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

Moderators: Jenise, Robin Garr, David M. Bueker

no avatar
User

David Lole

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

1433

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:49 am

Location

Canberra, Australia

WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by David Lole » Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:55 am

St. Huberts Cabernet Sauvignon 1994

I've drunk plenty of Cabernet from this excellent estate (1977 was my first vintage) and this outstanding example continues the wonderful tradition I've come to appreciate for well over twenty years.

Although fully mature and somewhere towards the end of its peak drinking window, the wine still holds a deep ruby/dark red core with plenty of aged hues in the edges, an initial awkward and disjointed bouquet that quickly transforms into something quite sensational and, lastly, delivers the knock-out punch with a palate that has just about everything you'd be looking for in a twenty dollar bottle of cabernet.

Open now for 24 hours (cork back in, left in fridge overnight and brought back to room temperature this evening), the nose displays immaculate Bordeaux-like nuance of violets, weedy blackcurrants, freshly-turned damp earth, cedar, pencil lead and a touch of barnyard. Likewise, the palate is similarly endowed, of medium-body, terrific line, wonderfully smooth, lithe and balanced, gliding through the mouth with such ease and equilibrium. The phenomenal sweet blackcurrant fruit of last evening has now been replaced with a gorgeous set of savoury secondary characters that ring true to a fifteen year old cabernet. There's still sufficient grip to suggest there's some life remaining, although the several bottles resting in the bat cave will probably see the light of day over the next year or three. Leaves a beautifully sustained finish that lingers interminably, almost continually begging you to take another sip. 93 points. 13.0% A/V
Cheers,

David
no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4927

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

Re: WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by Tim York » Fri Mar 13, 2009 2:06 pm

Is this a cool climate Cab, David?
Tim York
no avatar
User

Salil

Rank

Franc de Pied

Posts

2653

Joined

Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:26 pm

Location

albany, ny

Re: WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by Salil » Fri Mar 13, 2009 2:29 pm

I'm not familiar with this producer David, but it sounds as if I really need to find some of their wines. That really sounds stunning.
no avatar
User

Ian Sutton

Rank

Spanna in the works

Posts

2558

Joined

Sun Apr 09, 2006 2:10 pm

Location

Norwich, UK

Re: WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by Ian Sutton » Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:14 pm

Tim
For Australia, this would be cool climate, but not in the most extreme sense. There are a few noted Cabernet Sauvignons / Cab blends so it's not especially marginal (Yarra Yering / Yeringberg / Yarra Yarra / Mount Mary / Wantirna / Coldstream Hills and others show that there's some good Cab terroir around here). That said, I don't know of anyone pushing the limits of alcohol in the Yarra Valley. Nothing to excite Parker here (especially so it seems in the case of Mount Mary!).

Sorry for stealing in there David!

regards

Ian
Drink coffee, do stupid things faster
no avatar
User

David Lole

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

1433

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:49 am

Location

Canberra, Australia

Re: WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by David Lole » Sat Mar 14, 2009 2:00 am

"Cool climate" is fast disappearing off the face of the map in this country - and I'm not referring to the atrocious, sickening and most tragic bushfires that ran amuck through this part of Victoria just recently - global warming, the culprit here. The next thing that will happen if our climate continues to warm - Southern Tasmania will be growing perfectly ripened, high alcohol Shiraz!
Cheers,

David
no avatar
User

David Lole

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

1433

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:49 am

Location

Canberra, Australia

Re: WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by David Lole » Sat Mar 14, 2009 2:06 am

Ian Sutton wrote:Tim
For Australia, this would be cool climate, but not in the most extreme sense. There are a few noted Cabernet Sauvignons / Cab blends so it's not especially marginal (Yarra Yering / Yeringberg / Yarra Yarra / Mount Mary / Wantirna / Coldstream Hills and others show that there's some good Cab terroir around here). That said, I don't know of anyone pushing the limits of alcohol in the Yarra Valley. Nothing to excite Parker here (especially so it seems in the case of Mount Mary!).

Sorry for stealing in there David!

regards

Ian


No apology needed, Ian. These days I've got skin thicker than the leather on the Queen's finest open carriage. :wink:
Cheers,

David
no avatar
User

David Lole

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

1433

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:49 am

Location

Canberra, Australia

Re: WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by David Lole » Sat Mar 14, 2009 2:08 am

Tim York wrote:Is this a cool climate Cab, David?


Was back then, Tim. Not so sure whether you can say it's cool climate now, methinks.
Cheers,

David
no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4927

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

Re: WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by Tim York » Sat Mar 14, 2009 3:41 am

David Lole wrote:
Tim York wrote:Is this a cool climate Cab, David?


Was back then, Tim. Not so sure whether you can say it's cool climate now, methinks.


Does this mean that your experience with this 94 will no longer be repeatable from recent vintages?

A lot of Bordeaux is going that way, I fear, but the cause is human as much as climatic.
Tim York
no avatar
User

David Lole

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

1433

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:49 am

Location

Canberra, Australia

Re: WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by David Lole » Sat Mar 14, 2009 6:06 am

Tim York wrote:
David Lole wrote:
Tim York wrote:Is this a cool climate Cab, David?


Was back then, Tim. Not so sure whether you can say it's cool climate now, methinks.


Does this mean that your experience with this 94 will no longer be repeatable from recent vintages?

A lot of Bordeaux is going that way, I fear, but the cause is human as much as climatic.


I'm not close enough to the coal-face to opine on whether your suggestion of the human factor is a major player here, Tim. I truly hope it isn't, but alcohol levels are on the increase right across the board as a general rule. As evidenced from a quick add/division on one of our local prolific wine review sites, The Wine Front, Australian red A/V's now are perilously close to averaging 14.5%!
Cheers,

David
no avatar
User

David Lole

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

1433

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 3:49 am

Location

Canberra, Australia

Re: WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by David Lole » Sat Mar 14, 2009 6:21 am

Tim York wrote:Does this mean that your experience with this 94 will no longer be repeatable from recent vintages?


Again I hope not. Late last year, I did ask a Margaret River producer why A/V's are creeping up and up and his reply was "we don't have much of a say in that one". I then asked what he meant and his implied response was - to achieve physiological ripeness/flavour profile with the right numbers (I took this as acidity, PH etc), grapes are being picked at a higher brix. I'm not a chemist or all that strong with the more complex aspects of winemaking but I did get the impression from what he was saying that climate change was forcing his (and his colleague's) hand('s) at producing "warmer" finishing red wines.
Cheers,

David
no avatar
User

Ian Sutton

Rank

Spanna in the works

Posts

2558

Joined

Sun Apr 09, 2006 2:10 pm

Location

Norwich, UK

Re: WTN: A mature Cabernet from the Yarra Valley

by Ian Sutton » Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:25 pm

My own gut feeling is that barring one or two producers, areas like Yarra and Marg River aren't really fussed for chasing points from the "bigger is better" critics. Both have made their reputation on being at the more elegant end of the spectrum and I'd doubt there's any point (ahem!) in trying to 'out-Barossa' Barossa.

regards

Ian
Drink coffee, do stupid things faster

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: AhrefsBot, ClaudeBot, SemrushBot and 4 guests

Powered by phpBB ® | phpBB3 Style by KomiDesign