WTN: Portugal and Chorey-les-Beaune

2005 Arnoux Pere et Fils Chorey-les-Beaune "Les Beaumonts." Dan at Back Room Wines in Napa described this as very funky. After drinking peanut butter wine from bearded French neo-peasant farmers who have probably never cleaned their cellars , I would say "not really" But, the funk is there. Not offensive or disturbing in any way, just adding another note of enjoyable complexity. This was my favorite Burgundy I've drank over the past six months. Darker in color (actually darker than the Saintsbury last night) with good extraction and a very earthy tone to the nose. Definitely some funky notes as well-they actually made my palate sit up and take notice. Mouthfeel is medium bodied..The fruit was very nice, not closed down in any way. Instead of cherry/cranberry, this fruit reminded me more of very juicy RED plum, with delicious acidity and a base of earthyness. Some herbal notes, but way down below the earth, plum, and slight funk. Tannins were actually pretty soft (especially when compared to the ferociously tannic 2001 Beau had brought in to taste!) To me, this wine was all about the earthyness and the acid.

I find it hard to believe that California Pinot and Burgundy as made with the same grape 93 points.

2004 Bago de Touriga Terroso de Douro (Touriga Francia, Tinto Roriz, Tinta Borroca) 5 months in oak Holby Marketing, Sonoma. This was a delicious light quaffer purchased at the same Sonoma Enoteca mentioned yesterday. Definitely a hint, just a hint of "spritz"-and not a bad bottle, I think, because the glass I had in Sonoma last year had the same quality. Maybe spritz is the wrong word-maybe we are just talking about a pleasantly astringent splash of energy on the tongue? Veyr nice. Anyway...this wine was all about the berry and all about the tobacco. Another imbiber caught cloves. Quite light and refreshing, I could see this as a patio wine this summer. 89+ points, given the QPR ($16).

Having found out early how delectable some of the Chorey-les-Beaune was for the 2005 vintage, I acquired and depleted copious amounts at reasonable prices---especially since my primary retail supplier ordered in early when prices were low and did not subsequently raise prices when things started escalating.

Seems that particular site in that particular year simply had the right combination of whatever to ring your bell and mine, Brian. Great short term drinking---and since I don't have any left, I don't worry about whether it will last for long term drinking.

Great note. Then you had to go and spoil it by going all hyperbolic with the . Feh. That's what terroir and style are all about, dude. Different grapes (and thanks to the nature of Pinot Noir, lots of different clones) in different places under different winemakers make entirely different wines. Par for the course.

Heck, right here in Sonoma I can find numerous radical distinctions amongst Pinot Noirs from single vineyards, partly because of clonal selection, partly because of root stock selection, partly because of microclimatic variation/soil changes, partly because of canopy techniques, partly because of processing decisions, and partly because of winemaking philosophies.

Differences? That's what it is all about, my man.

I should be 100% shut down on new wine buying right now. The Chorey-les-Beaune, though, and even the Portugese cheapie, are really,really tempting. REALLY tempting.

I know, Hoke. I know. Difference is good.

The wines should tast different. Heck...I can enjoy both fiercely tannic and arguably shut down Pauillac AND Beringer Cab. (I draw the line, now, at 15.5% abv cabernets and pinots with 33 months under new oak, though!!!)

Heck, I am even grudginly recanting my rant from last year that ALL California pinot is bad. I thought the Saintsbury from Carneros was lovely (if pricey), and I have a Joseph Swan Cuvee a Trois in the queu.

Still..I love French wines, so I sometimes use them as exemplars or THE standard.

So do you think this 05 ClB will drink straight through with no shutdown period?

So do you think this 05 ClB will drink straight through with no shutdown period?

Hmmm. Good question. It appeared, to my limited palate, that the tannic structure is not prominent enough to shut it down.

Dan at Back Room Wines (who is one of my top five shops), however, did think that the funkyness would completely dominate the rather restrained fruit over time. He thought the wine should be drunk over a 1-2 year period. I'm not sure I would wait-the wine already has a lot going on. And, it's not anymore expensive ($25) than a top Cru Beaujo, so....