Franco Massolino was visiting the Finnish importer, so we had a tasting of his wines. This was a property that I hadn't tasted before, but I absolutely adored most of these wines. Apart from the Chardonnay, Barbera Gisep and the Barolo Parafada the wines were utterly classical in style without any new or small oak that I could sense.We started with the Langhe Chardonnay 2007 which weighed in at a hefty 14,5% abv, but the huge alcohol was fairly well hidden. It had some oaky nuttiness - but not an overoaked style. Citric, bright palate, no malo, refreshing despite its size. Decent stuff. But I have to admit I am finding it more and more difficult to get enjoyment out of Chardonnay (unless it has bubbles or is strange, funky stuff from the Jura).
Next we had the Dolcetto d'Alba 2007 which was pure, bright, fun fruit mixed with some savoury scents. Good tannins, charming fruit. I rather enjoy Dolcetto as a grape, but as I adore acidity, I did find the Barbera d'Alba 2007 even more to my taste. Once again, it is unashamedly fun and fruity, with those absolutely delightful herbaceous scents I so love in the grape; it was very ripe and fruity but had juicy acidity. Fun stuff. It was like a friendly dog slobbering all over me.
The more serious Barbera d'Alba Gisep 2006 sees 18 monthis in barrique with IIRC about a third new. Considering how oakophobic I am, I must admit that the oak was surprisingly well integrated (but still too much for me). But as far as these oaky Super-Barberas go, this was certainly amongst the more drinkable examples. The palate didn't show the strong oak influence as much: it was vibrant, deliciously acidic (oh, my goodness, how I love the acidities of these wines: not harsh in any way, but such that they make me drool!) and showed ripe, healthy fruit. I think many people will find this a very lovable Barbera.
The Langhe Nebbiolo 2005 was more to my taste. Once again, this had no new oak, so it showed an unadulterated, pure Nebbiolo character: bright fruit, some darker tones/tar. It was perhaps a bit soft for a young Nebbiolo, but it was very attractive and was fun to drink now.
After these "minor" wines which really do not deserve that sobriquet, we had the Barolos. We started with two "normale", the Barolo Classico 2003 and 2004. Like most that I have tried of the vintage, the 2003 was a little bit weird, and not really to my taste - though it was perfectly drinkable, I wouldn't go out and buy one. Over-ripe fruit, somewhat harsh and drying tannins as if the phenolic ripeness lagged behind the sugars. The 2004 was just lovely, however. Beautifully floral and bright red aromatics; harmonious and classically proportioned palate. Though obviously young, it brought me enormous pleasure.
The Barolo Parafada 2004 was one that I had slight reservations about. It sees some new barrique and I find that barrique and Nebbiolo clash horribly, so even a slight amount destroys the beautiful purity of the aromatics that I so love in this grape. Gladly this is the only one of their Barolos that does see some Barrique (and from 2007 onward, this will be only botti also!). It was soft, fruity, easy, and just didn't have the brightness or purity and grip that I seek. But it certainly wasn't offensively oaky as some modern styled Barolos are, so I understand that it has its fans.
I found the Barolo Margheria 2004 much more to my taste. In fact, I think this wine rocked! It was full of bright, refreshing aromatics, yet it also had a sweeter, strawberry edge to the fruit. Bright and clean, palate-cleansingly tannic, charming and in no way overwhelming acidity, pure. I loved it!
Finally we had a flight of the flagship Barolo, the Vigna Rionda and a lone old '74. The Barolo Vigna Rionda 2001 was awesome! It had power and purity, all the classic aromas I hope to find in Barolo; great structure, palate-cleansing, and very moreish despite being tight and young. Though it isn't a great time to be drinking it, I thought this might have been the greatest of the wines tonight. The Vigna Rionda 1999 X Anni was sweeter, more voluptuously fruity (if Barolo ever can really be called fruity, lol!), but with good structure. The aromatics were sublime, but I would have hoped for a less sweet palate. It is a great wine, though, despite my tiny criticism.
The Vigna Rionda 1995 was the wine that tonight combined class and drinkability. It might not be as great a wine as the '01 or '99 will be, but it was more mature. It had some aromas of dried fruit, but otherwise was as classic Barolo as one can hope for with all the stereotypical scents of tar and rose petals. Good structure, no hurry to drink this, but it is approachable and friendly. Very nice!
Sadly the older wines weren't showing too well. The Vigna Rionda 1988 smelled rather strongly of sulfur and rye bread. The palate, however, was rather lovely with soft, aged fruit: it was a calm wine whereas the younger wines were all about energy. The Barolo 1974 was brown and sadly dead. It tasted like cold tea. I'm not sure these were well stored bottles.
For dessert we had the Moscato d'Asti 2007 which was great fun! It smelled of grass and grapes; fizzy, 120g/l RS but still bright and refreshing and fun.
I really enjoyed meeting Franco and had a great time listening to his expert commentary and tasting his excellent wines.
