RRSeminar: Cool-Climate Syrah...(short/boring)

For the first time, RR offered up two Seminars on the day afore the GrandTasting. Both were
panels moderated by JonBonne, wine columinist for the SFChron, who did a good job of promoting/
provoking discussions and keeping any outbreak of fisticuffs under control.
The first panel was on Cool Climate Syrah From PinotCountry. Jon expressed some doubts to me
afterwards if all the wines really qualified as cool-climate Syrah. I expressed the opinion that
they did, though some were clearly cooler than others. The Peay was probably the only real cold-
climate Syrah displayed.
I asked the question of DanLee/Morgan what the real differences were in DougMeador's
valley floor/ArroyoSecco (who, I feel, doesn't get the credit he deserves for having the first,
outside of BienNacido, cold-climate Syrah vnyd in Calif) conditions and thos up in the SantaLucia
Highlands. Didn't really get a good answer I thought. I find the SLH Syrahs tend to have a more
herbal component and greater ripeness, whilst those from VentanaVnyd seem to be more structured
and display a more spicy/peppery Rhonish character.
I asked BobLindquist his preference between the Qupe X-Block Syrah and the Hillside planting.
He expressed a preference for the X-Block for it's greater age, but feels, with time, the Syrahs
from the Hillside block will surpass them.
The wines and their presentors:
1. MattMeyer/MeyerFamilyCllrs: Syrah '04: Rather oaked (well...his Dad was JustinMeyer/SilverOak)
some licorice/blackberry bit funky/aged nose; rather hard/lean bit dried out slight blackberry
flavor; seems a bit tired and dull; underwhelming. $35
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2. NickPeay/PeayVnyds: Syrah LaBruma/SonomaCoast '06: Beautiful classic cracked black pepper/
blackberry/spicy complex/cold-climate nose; very tart classic cold-climate cracked black
pepper/blackberry flavor w/ great tannins & structure; needs age. $45
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3. CharlieTsegeletos/ClineCllrs: Syrah CoolClimate '07: Lovely pepper/cool-climate Syrah licorice/
blackberry very spicy/lovely nose; tart peppery/licorice/blackberry/boysenberry spicy flavor;
seems a bit tight/closed compared to the '06; needs a yr or so to come around; an absolute
steal at $16
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4. RyanZepaltas/NovyFamilyWnry: Syrah JudgeFamilyVnyd '06: Very lush/blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah
slight peppery some toasty/pencilly/oak nose; soft/lush/rich blackberry/boysenberry some
pencilly/oak flavor w/ soft tannins; needs a yr or two; classic Novy Syrah w/ little cool-
climate character. $26
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5. DanLee/MorganWnry: Syrah DoubleLVnyd/SantaLuciaHighlands '06: Rather oaked some earthy/black-
berry/Syrah very slight peppery nose; tart low-fruit/blackberry somewhat toasty/oak flavor;
tastes like Syrah from a Pinot producer; a bit underwhelming. $40
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6.GregFreeman/HahnEstates: Syrah Hahn SantaLuciaHighlands Estate '07: Strong soupy/very ripe/
blackberry YellowTail nose; soft/fat/porky blackberry/soupy/CocaCola flavor w/ little
structure; some on the overripe side; rather dull. & overpriced. $27
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7. MatsHagstrom/TraviesoWnry: Syrah Amaranta Kirk'sFairviewRanch/SantaLuciaHighlands '05: Bit
funky/unclean rather strange/herbal/sour milk slight blackberry nose; tart rather herbal/
lactic/sour milk slight blackberry finish w/ little structure; rather strange wine. $42
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8. BobLindquist/QupeWnry BienNacidoVnyd '06: Lush blackberry/Syrah/boysenberry/spicy light
toasty/pungent classic Qupe Syrah nose; tart very spicy/blackberry/Syrah light pungent/toasty/
oak finish w/ great structure; classic Qupe Syrah, all about balance; will be a terrific Syrah
with 4-8 yrs of age. Steal at $30
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BP:
1. The Peay was the clear standout for me w/ classic cold-climate Syrah/cracked black pepper
character; great structure and one that will withstand the test of time. The Qupe was next
but didn't standout at this point in its life. It, too, is made for the long haul, not because
of its tannins, but because of its balance. The Cline was another in a string of successes for
this wine from over in the PetalumaGap area. Good cool-climate character at a great price.
The Novy was classic Novy; soft/supple/lush and very drinkable. All the rest didn't do much
for me; pretty underwhelming.
Tom

Thanks, Tom, for the notes. I have one bottle of the 2005 Peay La Bruma in my cellar, so I have high hopes.

For that matter, their second label, Cep, was to my inexperienced palate spot on for Saint Joseph and was awesomely nervy and bright and delcious and $20!

For that matter, their second label, Cep, was to my inexperienced palate spot on for Saint Joseph and was awesomely nervy and bright and delcious and $20!

I was pretty impressed w/ the one Cep I tried as well, Brian. That'll probably be the ultimate home they use for the '07 Pomarium they're taking back.
Tom

Thanks for the notes, Tom.

Having just recently concluded two different competitions in CA (Monterey and NWIWC) I can say for the first time I am actually heartened at the quality and style of Syrah by CA producers. Seems the grape has either acclimated itself to the CA scene, or winemakers are understanding it a lot better than they used to. Tasting them blind, I thought the overall quality was much better, there was markedly less of the blueberry soup character, and there was significantly more secondary and tertiary elements emerging from some (many) of them. Actually could get something beyond ripe fruit, like leather, and earth, and bloody meat and occasionally game. Not mistaking them for Cote Rotie, mind you, but they are significantly better than they used to be. Hope abounds.

[David M. Bueker]

Now you guys know that I am a fan of cool climate wines and Euro-centric styles, but which do you think is more appealing to the average person: blueberry or a fantastic cocktail of leather, earth, bloody meat and game?

It's no wonder we have a hard time getting winemakers to produce the stuff we like.

Having just recently concluded two different competitions in CA (Monterey and NWIWC) I can say for the first time I am actually heartened at the quality and style of Syrah by CA producers. Seems the grape has either acclimated itself to the CA scene, or winemakers are understanding it a lot better than they used to. Tasting them blind, I thought the overall quality was much better, there was markedly less of the blueberry soup character, and there was significantly more secondary and tertiary elements emerging from some (many) of them. Actually could get something beyond ripe fruit, like leather, and earth, and bloody meat and occasionally game. Not mistaking them for Cote Rotie, mind you, but they are significantly better than they used to be. Hope abounds.

Well, Hoke.... you should have been around in the early days of Calif Syrah. It was pretty discouraging. I learned Syrah back on C-R & Hermitage and always thought the grape oughta make a pretty good wine in Calif. When that first '73 JosephPhelps came out...made by WalterShug and made like a Calif Pinot/Spatburgunder, all slathered up in new toasty Fr. oak....my hopes were shattered. Those first Syrahs probably set Calif Syrah back by 10 yrs or more. It wasn't until I tried, from barrel, GaryEberle's first '76 Syrah that I got a faint glimpse, by its pretty strawberry aromas, the potential for Syrah in Calif. Then came the four '82's (Ojai, SierraVista, Qupe, BonnyDoon) that you could definitely see the potential for Syrah in Calif to make great wine. Then the EdmundsStJohn.....and it's been an upward spiral, with few pauses, since then. They've learned how to make the wine (less new oak...except for the Napa Cabernet producers making Syrah) and where to grow the grapes, all that. I'm pretty bullish on Calif Syrah and have been for quite a few yrs. And...gasp...you can find some that even are pretty good stand-ins for Cote-Rotie/Hermitage.
Tom

Enjoyed your notes. I'm signed up for a tasting at the Nantucket Wine Festival in May with the "Sultans of the Sonoma Coast"--Peay, Failla and Hirsch. I lack experience with their wines but look forward to rectifying that.

My favorite California Syrah to date is Babcock Nook and Cranny Syrah. Have you tried that one, Tom?

Enjoyed your notes. I'm signed up for a tasting at the Nantucket Wine Festival in May with the "Sultans of the Sonoma Coast"--Peay, Failla and Hirsch. I lack experience with their wines but look forward to rectifying that.
My favorite California Syrah to date is Babcock Nook and Cranny Syrah. Have you tried that one, Tom?

Absolutely, I've tried Brian's Nook&Cranny. One of the best SantaBarbara Syrahs around.
The seminar should be very good. I've not much experience w/ DaveHirsch's own Pinots, but plenty from his grapes by other producers. EhrenJordan's Estate Syrah is one of the great Syrah vnyds in Calif. As is Nick&Andy Peay's vnyd further up the coast. You have a great Pinot & Syrah experience at that seminar.
Tom