We seem to be on the mailing list of the enterprising and excellent quality Basque “charcutier” (Harrap’s says = “pork butcher” but it is really more than that), Pierre Oteiza, who was presenting his produce in a village about 500 metres into France. We drove there on a radiant, if not particularly warm, afternoon and it transpired that the presentation was being complemented by a tasting of much of the range of a local wine merchant. Only the first three estates noted here were already on my radar screen but the merchant seems to be a good wine picker and some of the others are worth remembering.
Beaujolais blanc Les Terres Dorées 2007 Jean Paul Brun (€7,50) was refreshing and crisp with meaty and floral aromas; I did not get the gluey touch towards the finish which I noticed tasting in Brun’s presence about 9 months ago; I bought some; 15.5/20+++.
Corbières Cuvée Romain Pauc 2006 Château La Voulte Gasparets (€16,30), made from Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah, is supposed to be a classic of Languedoc but I found its aromas a shade too jammy at present; the palate is full and smooth with dark fruit, structure, a suave but somewhat obtrusive wood patina and liquorice notes; probably needs some time to come together; 15/20 at present; potentially 16/20+ ?
(I actually prefer the basic cuvée at present; Corbières 2006 Château La Voulte Gasparets (€4,85 at a local hypermarket), which is much less sophisticated but honest and shows attractive plum fruit, generous mouth-fill with backbone and pleasing leathery notes; 15.5/20.)
Château Les Jonqueyres – Blaye – 2004 (€10,60) is an example of “modern” Bordeaux showing aromas of jam and dry wood which integrated better with some airing and a roundly fruity, structured and quite tannic palate but not much of the real Bordeaux leafy tang which I love; 15/20++.
Saint-Véran “Les Chailloux” 2007 – Domaine des Poncetys (€12,95) was talked up by the presenter but at this stage I did not particularly care for the evidence of its wood treatment, woody pineapple aromas and a full creamy and tropically fruity palate though with some nice mineral touches peeping through; 14.5/20 but it may improve with integration. I much preferred the Brun Beaujolais blanc.
Domaine Dubost, Beaujolais
Brouilly 2007 (€7,90) was quite pale in colour and light in body but the aromas and fruit were attractive with prune notes, nice tang and fragrant after-taste; a good quaff; 15.5/20.
Morgon 2007 (€7,90) was not quite so light but also exhibited prune notes along with raspberry, minerals and good length; 15.5/20+++. The presenter said that the relative lightness of these two came from the vintage; 2008 should have more stuffing.
Domaine Saint-Antonin, Faugères - Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault.
Faugères “Les Jardins” 2007 (€5,80) was robust, sweetly fruity, mineral and tangy; 15.5/20++; I bought some.
Faugères “Tradition” 2007 (€7) was rounder, richer and more structured but I caught a note of orange peel which made me suspicious about its longevity; 15.5/20.
These wines are robustly enjoyable, good QPR and worth seeking out though lacking the elegance and refinement that Alquier offers from the same appellation, albeit at a much higher price.
Gigondas 2005 – Domaine de Piaugier (€12), a Grenache dominated cocktail, was robustly full bodied with vigorous sweet plum fruit, pepper, anise, lively acidity and structure; 16/20+++; writing this, I realise that I should have bought some.
Domaine Saint-Just, Saumur-Champigny
Saumur-Champigny 2007 (€7) was softly fruity and quite light; 14.5/20++.
Saumur-Champigny “Les Terres Rouges” 2007 (€7,95) was richer and rounder with more structure; 15/20+
Pleasant wines from a difficult year but short of the personality to which I am accustomed at a similar price from René-Noël Legrand.
Irouléguy 2004 Domaine Etxegaraya (€10,10), made from 60% Tannat and 40% CabFranc, was more rustic than those from La Cave d’Irouléguy but was appealingly gutsy and robust with notes of damson, raspberry and discreet vanilla; 15.5/20++.
There was a buffet of unlimited quantities of Pierre Oteiza’s products and the merchant’s wines for the fixed price (quite high) of €30; as I had to drive home, I couldn’t take advantage of the latter. Oteiza’s Basque ham and duck salami are out of this world.