Cellar builders - US/Canada and elsewhere

I recently started a thread on an Aussie forum, reflecting on the understated Aussie cellar-builder wines. Wines that are maybe 2-3 times entry level cost, yet age well into the medium term (say 8+ years most vintages), sometimes longer and sometimes achieving an aged complexity that belies their lowly status. The likes of Tahbilk Marsanne, Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon, D'arenberg D'arrys original, Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon.

What would be your recommendation for US/Canada or overseas wines for someone wanting to cheaply "fill out" a cellar of ageworthy wines? The 'backbone' as it were to their collection, that gives a low cost way to experience maturing wines. Ideally choosing wines that have enough vintages under their belt to demonstrate that ageing ability.

(Also posted on Rogov's wine forum for Israeli wines)

regards

Ian

p.s. Having just thought about it, this ties in nicely with this month's wine focus - maybe we'll see some of the candidates on people's tasting tables this month.

[David M. Bueker]

I could not imagine a cellar without Edmunds St. John Syrahs.

St. Innocent Pinot Noir (Oregon) is something I think is worth having in the cellar.

I recently started a thread on an Aussie forum, reflecting on the understated Aussie cellar-builder wines. Wines that are maybe 2-3 times entry level cost, yet age well into the medium term (say 8+ years most vintages), sometimes longer and sometimes achieving an aged complexity that belies their lowly status. The likes of Tahbilk Marsanne, Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon, D'arenberg D'arrys original, Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon.

Ian - didn't realize the D'Arrys blend fits in that category. I've not enjoyed the lower end D'Arenbergs that I've tried (a couple of vintages of Stump Jump, and some of the white blends) - but will try and look out for a D'Arrys original (especially if you're putting it in the company of Wynn's Black Label and Elizabeth Semillon).

While I don't have all that much experience with California, Ridge York Creek Petite Sirah is definitely something built for the very long haul.
Argyle's sparkling wines and pretty much anything by Dehlinger are also worth giving some time to (recently had a '97 Argyle Extended Tirage Brut that was outstanding - among the best new world bubblies I've ever had).

Salil
I wondered how long before Ridge got a name check and I do recall enjoying their Petite Sirah. Not especially cheap, but as a cellar-builder it's got (IMO) really good qpr and enough character to fit into exactly what someone would seek when starting a cellar.

Re: D'Arrys Original, yes it's track record is pretty strong, but doesn't get the press that Dead Arm and the other labels get. Definitely capable of a decade's development in a decent year and perhaps the only wine from their portfolio that I've ever returned to. Not been at all impressed with the Stump Jump wines or indeed any of the whites (thougn there is a riesling I've not tried, barring the Noble riesling, which aged a little quickly).

David
Yes I really should actively search out one of the Edmund St John wines - indeed I can't ever recall seeing a bottle in a wine shop here, unlike Ridge and Au Bon Climat which both have surprisingly good coverage.

regards

Ian

Ian - No plans on trying any of the D'Arenberg Riesling(s). As much as I love Riesling, I just can't come to terms with a lot of the South Australian stuff (even Grosset or Steingarten) - for whatever reason I find the ones from Frankland River (Frankland Estate's Isolation Ridge - YUM, oh and there's a cellar builder ) much more to my taste for dry ones, and for off-dry/sweet ones lean towards Tassie.

And agree that Ridge's Petite Sirah isn't particularly cheap... although I did have the '75 York Creek PS a few months ago and it's among the very best/most memorable red wines I've ever had. For what it ultimately delivers with age (at that particular dinner, it blew the doors off a lot of more expensive/highly rated wines), reckon it's a great thing to lay down.

[Jenise]

Interesting question, Ian. I'm surprised your list didn't include some of the Penfolds wines, like Bin 389 and Bin 28. Those surely meet your criteria?

[David M. Bueker]

Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz would fit for me.

By the way, I don't think Ridge makes a varietal Petite Sirah from York Creek anymore.

Interesting question, Ian. I'm surprised your list didn't include some of the Penfolds wines, like Bin 389 and Bin 28. Those surely meet your criteria?

Jenise
In the same way as the Wynns Black label cabernet, then yes, no reason to exclude them (though Bin389 is cheaper in the states than UK or Australia and over here at approaching £20 it's falling out of my interest). I did think about adding them into the examples but didn't want it to be Penfolds dominant, especially as question marks about QPR are coming out on these wines more and more every year. The value is probably not what it used to be. Still in a good vintage like 1998 or 1996, these were very safe bets.

However there was a time when Penfolds Koonunga Hill used to fulfil the criteria as well (up to 1996 vintage by common belief). Indeed it's the Koonunga Hill level of wine which can really amaze with their track record of cellaring. Someone on an Aussie forum mentioned Taylors/Wakefield cabernet and shiraz as being more recent challengers.

It's this ability to put a cellar backbone together based on ~ US $10-$20 wines. At that level, plus allowing the odd treat at up to $30, it allows even those on a really tight budget to get a foot on the slippery ladder to where we find ourselves (and our cellars) these days

regards

Ian