I have reviewed these notes of wines consumed at home in the last week in the light of their suitability for inclusion in the Wine Focus topic on QPR wines. The judgement is, of course, subjective but I have concluded that they are all on the full side of being fairly priced, so that for me none qualify as QPR wines. The closest are the Ladoix, which is cheap for the Côte d’Or but is slightly marred by 2003 faults, and the Mas Jullien, where I am aware of others of similar quality from the region costing up to a handful of Euros less.
Côtes de Provence “Columelle” 1995 – Domaine Richeaume – Alc. 12.5% - (€26 for 2006), made from Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, showed quite full body, good depth of rich, ripe fruit impregnated with sweet cherry, resolved tannic structure, good mouth-fill and fair length together with a refinement not common in Provence. The previous bottle had more grip and the flavours were too one-dimensional, albeit very pretty, to rate more than 16/20. (This estate enjoys a wonderful situation close to Montagne Sainte-Victoire , much painted by Cézanne, and uses organic methods.)
Cahors 1999 – Château Lagrézette – Alc. 13.5% (approx. €20 for 2005) showed typical Cahors aromas of stewed dark fruit, thyme, tar, wet leather and liquorice with quite full body, good mouth-fill and fair length together with an element of fat and sweetness of fruit, smooth tannins and polished patina which are less typical. The back label gives the clue; 22% Merlot, blended with 76% Malbec and 2% Tannat, bring the fat and sweetness and 18 to 22 months in new oak barrels contribute the patina, which after 10 years is not obtrusive. So a nice wine, albeit with its typicity somewhat dumbed down; 16/20. (Lagrézette has the reputation of being a standard bearer of the “modern” style of Cahors with Michel Rolland as consultant - http://www.chateau-lagrezette.tm.fr/homepage_eng.html . This wine is about third down in their hierarchy of 5 Cahors cuvées.)
Some Burgundians consider 2003 an emblematic year for reds but, this time on Ladoix “Les Nagets” 2003 Domaine Maratray-Dubreuil – Alc. 13% - (€16), I found some of the usual 2003 candied undertow and shortage of lively Burgundian mineral acidity, both of which detracted from the otherwise beautiful round and rich Pinot fruit with a lot of sweet cherry together with full body with generous mouth-fill; 15.5/20. (An unsuitably acidic pairing together with a little more age may have highlighted the 2003 faults because on another bottle a few months ago I commented that they were less marked than in most other Burgundies of the year.)
Coteaux du Languedoc “Les états de âme” 2004 – Mas Jullien - Alc. 13.5% - (€14.50) is that fine estate’s entry level wine. It showed full body, plenty of savoury dark plum fruit laced with Mediterranean herbs and spices, generous mouth-fill and fair length; 15.5/20++.