WTN: Tasting with original Spanish flavours plus great Bolly

I have been cutting back on my Saturday visits to Rob, the Brussels gastronomic temple, because there is too much temptation both in food and in wines being shown that day of the week. This Saturday I yielded and found some more original Spanish wine flavours on show in the cellars from the importer who introduced me to Bierzo as well as Bollinger entry level Champagne in the main shop.

DOQ Priorat “Nunci Blanco” 2005 - Mas de les Pereres (€26), Belgian owned, made from 50% Garnatxa blanca, 30% Macabeu, 5% Pedro Ximenez, 5% Xarel.lo, 5% Moscatel and 5% Parellada, is a new one for me as a white from Priorat; it was broodingly and darkly aromatic and strong with deep Mediterranean flavours noticeably marked by its 5% of Moscatel and crying out for a fish dish like bouillabaisse or paella with lobster and brandy; to revisit with food 16/20.

DO Penedès “Gessami” 2005 (W) – Gramona (€11), a blend of 60% Muscat d'Alexandria, 10% Muscat Frontignan and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, was marked by Sauvugnon on the nose but on the palate was delightfully refreshing and grapey with a nice acid tang calling for asparagus and shrimps; 15.5/20+.

Ribera del Duero “Cepa Gavilán” 2006 - Hermanos Pérez Pascuas (€13),100% Tinto fino (Tempranillo), raised for 12 months in once and twice used French and American barrels, was still quite marked by wood but showed an attractive mass of savoury fruit and bracing acidity; 15/20 now.

DO Valencia “Maduresa” 2005 - Celler del Roure (€21), made from 30% Mandó, 20% Monastrell, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 15% Tempranillo and raised 12 months in new French barrels, was another new one for me and a welcome surprise with its rich juicy cherry laced fruit, velvety mouth-feel and full body; 16/20.

Finally Pétalos Bierzo 2006 Descendientes de J. Palacios (€12), 100% Mencia, was its usual attractive self with a Northern Rhône type distinction with greater generosity which I have written about several times; 16/20.

The Bollinger stand did not offer spitting facilities so I passed on Special Cuvée which I know well and concentrated on Champagne rosé (€60) which I had not tried previously; it was all it should be; biscuity, slightly creamy, full bodied, mineral and vinous with structure, length and real class; 17.5/20.

[David M. Bueker]

I've only had Bollinger Rosé once, but I really loved it. Shame about the price.

I also enjoyed the Gessami at a restaurant in Vilafranca del Penedès. It also matched Sushi very well.

Glad to hear the '06 Pétalos wasn't as oaky as the '07 I recently reported on.

Tim, so much for wine buying probation eh!!!

My 2009 wine buying probation started well but there were relapses at the TGVins tasting (Foreau and Gauby) and on Saturday . The next few weeks will be testing with some more good tastings to come and possible trips to the Mosel and Loire.